OK, so along with finishing the "hotter hands", friend and I put on the frame sliders... As I described in part II of "Hotter Hands", friend and I were well acquanted with The Captain 
at this point, so my apologies for out of focus pictures, and a few steps missing.... Unfortunately I don't have the time to take the fairings off again to re-take the pictures... Call me inferior, but this is the way it is... ;D
Again, with the fairings off...
![Image]()
And the frame-sliders out of the box and ready to go.... (There are actually 2 plastic sliders, not just one, as is shown in the pic)...
![Image]()
We test fit, because they are NOT the same... The engine is offset in the frame (as far as I could tell), and the slider/frame combos are side specific... So make sure you check...
test fit: Notice - the frame bolt to the ENGINE MOUNTING bolts.... Don't pull both these bolt out without supporting the engine, otherwise your exhaust will more than likely get bent (and other things will get screwed up too by your engine rotating and falling to the ground...)
![Image]()
![Image]()
During test fit I found the sprocket guard to be in the way, so...
Take off the shifter linkage:
![Image]()
This is the evil culprit that needs to muevate:
![Image]()
I found it easiest by using a flat blade screw driver, and "popping" it loose from underneath:
![Image]()
and better location/context:
![Image]()
MMMMMMM, delicious... 7,000 miles worth of excess chain lube (about 1/8 inch thick)... I guess I can go easier on that:
![Image]()
This is the part I got a little excited and friend and I forgot to take pictures.. So this is how we did it..
1.) Engine is bolted to frame with 3 bolts, bottom, middle (rear of the frame-slider bracket), and the top (front of frame slider bracket). We unbolted the middle bolt, worked the slider-frames into place, and loosely bolted the longer, new bolt (shorter of the two in the kit), into place.
2.) With the engine's weight thus on the bottom and middle bolts, we unbolted the top bolt and tried to work it out to no avail... Still too much weight on that top bolt (I'm guessing it's pretty import then??!?)
3.) Use hydraulic jack (I just positioned it on the oil filter - seemed to be strongest point of the engine) to support engine. NOTE: DO NOT DROP HYDRAULIC JACK ON LEFT BIG TOE - it makes shifting a painful affair!!!
4.) With engine supported, and old bolt out, line up slider-frames and put it new bolt. Snug up both middle and top bolts to make sure engine is nice and tight on the frame, and the slider-frames are nice and tight on the engine.... At this point I believe I yanked, pulled and pushed in every direction I could imagine to make sure nothing is going to "pop" or "jump" loose under thorough use.... I'm sure my decision to do this was also influenced by The Captain.... Anyways, nothing moved... Cool!
Attach sliders to EACH RESPECTIVE SIDE - remember they are of different lengths and if mixed up, you'll have a REALLY long slider on one side, and NONE on the other side....
![Image]()
![Image]()
Once these are bolted on, I tried to put the sprocket cover back on... no dice! Time for some cutting:
Original:
![Image]()
Cutting with hack saw - cause all my dremel blades are broken :
![Image]()
Initial piece off:
![Image]()
Test fit... No dice.... More cutting, grinding and other metal forming shenanigans and thus:
![Image]()
Cover back on, fits well, and doesn't wobble/vibrate... Everything clears and is good to go...
While I was busy hacking away at a piece of the bike, friend was putting fairings and things back on... So once I got the sprocket cover back on, it looked like this:
![Image]()
![Image]()
I will be back at some point (when I get some time) with a picture of what these will be used for most of the time.. Hopefully I never have to use them for their intended purpose.... Moore's (or is it Murphy?) law: If something can go wrong, it will > If you're not prepared for something, it will happen and bite you in the arse.... > If you're prepared, it probably won't happen....
Next up, the WHY and HOW to removing your kickstand switch...
at this point, so my apologies for out of focus pictures, and a few steps missing.... Unfortunately I don't have the time to take the fairings off again to re-take the pictures... Call me inferior, but this is the way it is... ;DAgain, with the fairings off...
And the frame-sliders out of the box and ready to go.... (There are actually 2 plastic sliders, not just one, as is shown in the pic)...
We test fit, because they are NOT the same... The engine is offset in the frame (as far as I could tell), and the slider/frame combos are side specific... So make sure you check...
test fit: Notice - the frame bolt to the ENGINE MOUNTING bolts.... Don't pull both these bolt out without supporting the engine, otherwise your exhaust will more than likely get bent (and other things will get screwed up too by your engine rotating and falling to the ground...)
During test fit I found the sprocket guard to be in the way, so...
Take off the shifter linkage:
This is the evil culprit that needs to muevate:
I found it easiest by using a flat blade screw driver, and "popping" it loose from underneath:
and better location/context:
MMMMMMM, delicious... 7,000 miles worth of excess chain lube (about 1/8 inch thick)... I guess I can go easier on that:
This is the part I got a little excited and friend and I forgot to take pictures.. So this is how we did it..
1.) Engine is bolted to frame with 3 bolts, bottom, middle (rear of the frame-slider bracket), and the top (front of frame slider bracket). We unbolted the middle bolt, worked the slider-frames into place, and loosely bolted the longer, new bolt (shorter of the two in the kit), into place.
2.) With the engine's weight thus on the bottom and middle bolts, we unbolted the top bolt and tried to work it out to no avail... Still too much weight on that top bolt (I'm guessing it's pretty import then??!?)
3.) Use hydraulic jack (I just positioned it on the oil filter - seemed to be strongest point of the engine) to support engine. NOTE: DO NOT DROP HYDRAULIC JACK ON LEFT BIG TOE - it makes shifting a painful affair!!!
4.) With engine supported, and old bolt out, line up slider-frames and put it new bolt. Snug up both middle and top bolts to make sure engine is nice and tight on the frame, and the slider-frames are nice and tight on the engine.... At this point I believe I yanked, pulled and pushed in every direction I could imagine to make sure nothing is going to "pop" or "jump" loose under thorough use.... I'm sure my decision to do this was also influenced by The Captain.... Anyways, nothing moved... Cool!
Attach sliders to EACH RESPECTIVE SIDE - remember they are of different lengths and if mixed up, you'll have a REALLY long slider on one side, and NONE on the other side....
Once these are bolted on, I tried to put the sprocket cover back on... no dice! Time for some cutting:
Original:
Cutting with hack saw - cause all my dremel blades are broken
:
Initial piece off:
Test fit... No dice.... More cutting, grinding and other metal forming shenanigans and thus:
Cover back on, fits well, and doesn't wobble/vibrate... Everything clears and is good to go...
While I was busy hacking away at a piece of the bike, friend was putting fairings and things back on... So once I got the sprocket cover back on, it looked like this:
I will be back at some point (when I get some time) with a picture of what these will be used for most of the time.. Hopefully I never have to use them for their intended purpose.... Moore's (or is it Murphy?) law: If something can go wrong, it will > If you're not prepared for something, it will happen and bite you in the arse.... > If you're prepared, it probably won't happen....
Next up, the WHY and HOW to removing your kickstand switch...
