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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1 ) Can someone give me a run down of what tools I will need? Links to pictures of kits that contain what I need, or detailed explanations of everything I will need would be best. I expect my HMF pipe to be arriving soon and I would like to do the work myself after it is installed.

2 ) On a completly different note, I have noticed that sometimes when I open the throttle way fast (imagine 'about' as fast as you could rev your engine to the 3-4 K RPM range) and sometimes it just.. hesitates.. it just does not rev at all. I do not know what this is called, sputtering, I suppose? Not too sure. If I roll on, even roll on a bit quickly but not a hard pull, it does fine.. it just seems to hiccup now and then and I am assuming this can be carb adjustments and cleaning more then anything? opinions?
 

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1.) To remove the fairings you will need a Phillips head screw driver, a 3(?) and 6mm (?) allen wrench. To remove the tank you will need a pair of needle nose pliers and a 10mm socket or wrench. To remove the carb covers you willl need a phillips head, but I believe there is another phillips type head, that's specifically made for japanese fasteners, which is basically just a snub-nose phillips head. This is kind of important, because most phillips heads come to a steep point, and doesn't provide as much contact is as sometimes needed, and the risk of rounding out the screw heads is increased. Ask Prometheus how much fun that is... I think he's the newest member who's suffered this. This is all from memory, so I might have forgotten something. You will also need some shims, or very small washers. The easiest way to get them is at the moto-store, it's also the most expensive. Their size and type are posted multiple times on here, maybe even the needle-shimming thread? I'm too lazy to search. If you can't find it, I'll help you look.

If you wanted to change out the needles, Dyno-Jet makes an awesome kit, the only way to get their needles. I'm unaware of a different manu that makes needles for the 250. You shouldn't need it however, that's the whole point to shimming the needles is to use the originals, and keep is at cheap as possible. The Dyno kit is $90, and I think 2875? Somebody rectify me. This has also been mentioned quite a few times on the boards...

2.) Where do you live, and how cold is it when this happens? If it's under 50F, let the bike warm up longer and see if this changes the hesitation issue. When it's sub 30F here in the mornings when I leave for work, I let my bike warm up 15 minutes. There are 3 stages I can tell you about listening to it that it goes through warming up, maybe this will help you.

i.) Choke fully on and it's got a real hard thud with every explosion because it's overly rich, but it's the only way to keep it running.

ii.) The thud goes away and the RPM's quickly jump from idle (1,200rpm) to about 4,000rpm in a second. Now it's about half-way. This usually happens pretty darn quick on my bike, but it's been modified, and re-jetted with the Dyno kit... I back the choke off as far as possible without killing the bike.

iii.) This is the longest part of the warm-up, getting up to "Running-temp". Even though, with the choke, the RPM's rap up high, one can still sense a distinctive dragging in the power train, and it's almost like an inaudible click where the engine just starts to run freely. Because some choke is still being used, the RPM's might climb a little, but not more than 700rpm's (2,000rpm), and when I touch the throttle, it will rev nicely. I then turn my choke off completely. It might take some time to get the ear on for this, but after you back the choke after in stage ii, the bike is "safe" to ride - meaning, you're not going to do massive damage to the engine forcing it to run in the cold...

If it is warm in your area and this happens, tell us, and we'll go from there, because then it gets complicated.... :p
 

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Best thing to do is hit the search bar up there top right...

When I shimmed my carbs, added a full exhaust and removed the snorkal, all hesitation went pretty much. First thing in the morn first squirt it would still hesitate a little then it would be fine.

http://www.newninja.com/modifications/shimming-the-needles/

Felix



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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So guys.. I did a proper warm up of my bike today according to Spoophs directions.. took about the same amount of time and I felt like it was the warmest it has been since I have had it. It did seem to run 'better', but I do not feel like all the hesitation is gone. One thing I would like to mention is the gas in the tank is the gas that the previous owner had sitting in the tank over the winter. Could bad gas cause the bike to run more sluggish then normal?
 

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I would have to say if it wasn't treated, probably.
 

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I would absolutely have to agree. Bad gas is no good... But don't waste those hydro-carbons.

This would be my (lazy man's way), to getting through this. Get some octane booster from any gas station, and mix in half a bottle. Keep in mind, most of these octane boosters are concentrated for car/truck tank, and can usually treat about 20 gals, so if you put in half the bottle in a full bike tank, you're running at twice the concentration used on cars and trucks, so it will open everything nice and dandy. Do it when you can run the tank through, cause leaving that stuff in the lines is not always a great idea.

After you've done that, grab some injector/carb cleaner, and put in, again, half a bottle FIRST, and then top off the tank SECOND, as high as you can get it in the filler neck. This should mix up all the cleaner, and you're jets will be squeaky clean after this...

Then, what do you do with the extra octane booster/cleaner? Well, you can either light it on fire in your drive way (always fun), pour it on some weeds (they will die with a quickness), or just run the rest through 2 more tanks of fuel, if you don't want to waste to finely crafted hydro-carbs-ons... :)

This should give you 4-5 tanks through the carbs. That's roughly 1,000 miles, and if you're not willing to endure it through all that, shim the carbs first, and do it anyway... :) Even one shim under your needle will get you what you're looking for... You could also try turning the air/fuel mixture screw out by half, or maybe a full turn, but no more....

Keep us posted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
spooph said:
I would absolutely have to agree. Bad gas is no good... But don't waste those hydro-carbons.

This would be my (lazy man's way), to getting through this. Get some octane booster from any gas station, and mix in half a bottle. Keep in mind, most of these octane boosters are concentrated for car/truck tank, and can usually treat about 20 gals, so if you put in half the bottle in a full bike tank, you're running at twice the concentration used on cars and trucks, so it will open everything nice and dandy. Do it when you can run the tank through, cause leaving that stuff in the lines is not always a great idea.

After you've done that, grab some injector/carb cleaner, and put in, again, half a bottle FIRST, and then top off the tank SECOND, as high as you can get it in the filler neck. This should mix up all the cleaner, and you're jets will be squeaky clean after this...

Then, what do you do with the extra octane booster/cleaner? Well, you can either light it on fire in your drive way (always fun), pour it on some weeds (they will die with a quickness), or just run the rest through 2 more tanks of fuel, if you don't want to waste to finely crafted hydro-carbs-ons... :)

This should give you 4-5 tanks through the carbs. That's roughly 1,000 miles, and if you're not willing to endure it through all that, shim the carbs first, and do it anyway... :) Even one shim under your needle will get you what you're looking for... You could also try turning the air/fuel mixture screw out by half, or maybe a full turn, but no more....

Keep us posted!
Nice, sounds like something I can do pretty easily :)

I will shim the carbs today or tomorrow hopefully, and then I will start this process of adding octane booster/carb cleaner and just running it on through.

Thanks for the great sounding advice spooph


Edit: After I am done with this I will post with all end results on all ends of starting, idle rpm, hesitation, etc.
 
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