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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Did a successful valve adjustment (at least I hope the bike doesn't erupt into a pillar of flame when I start it ;) ) the FAQs at ninja250.org (my bible) recommends at carb sync afterwards. without a manometer or really wanting to fabricate one right now, do you fellas recommend it? Can it wait ? thanks :)

oh yeah a little about my adjustment:

I ended up going for intake valves: if .127 fits and .152 doesnt, its ok. for exhaust: if .152 fits and .17~ doesnt, its ok. the acceptable clearances for intake and exhaust respectively are .08 - .13mm (intake) and .11 - .16mm (exhaust).

I read something somewhere that if you adjust to the looser side you can wait longer before the next adjustment so I picked the laaaarger side of the gap. After I finished I read spoophs article and I think he said something about how the bigger the gap is the tighter the valves are (which is not what I want, right?). I found this pretty confusing- at any rate its in clearance, is it worth changing? I kinda struggled with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I ended up double checking the clearance a couple times and sealed it up. Everything is put back together, almost. I was wondering if I should change the spark plugs. They look okay to me. I bought some new ones but when I got home I noticed they were 'autolite' brand which is not recommended...

I want to seal up the bike ready-to-go for when spring comes and i'm leaving home in a few days. I wanted to get as much done before I go back to school. so..

1. put old plugs back in,
2. put autolites in,
or 3. order recommended plugs and wait to put them in when April comes.

also if anyone has any questions about doing a valve adjustment or would like to borrow the kawi adjustment tool let me know...
 

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Sharrokor, I'm confused on what you're asking...

If the distance between the cam and the bucket is greater, the valves are looser. I adjust my valves to be as close to the middle of the range as possible. (intake = .105).

On spark plugs, replace with OEM. A spark plug is one of the few static elements engineers design around. No need to mess with it unless you're a high-end shop with lots of fancy instruments. BTW - I'm still on stock plugs at 40K. I just keep gapping them. Once the electrode in the middle is gone, I'll be replacing them. Maybe 60K? Maybe more?
 
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