[Blackout]

Was wondering, since I did some googling and can't seem to find the right answer here-

What size of the busa links am I looking for here? a 0" (stock) - 1" - 2"?

a 2"-4"?

I need to know in order to raise the rear to optimal position, with maybe the rake right in the 24 area?

 

[hi-tech]

raise it? wow how tall are u? x is like over 6' and his is dropped

 

[Delta107]

Why would you raise it? *interested*

 

[Travisty]

Better handling. Changing the rake of the forks will set the bike up for different behavior coming into, going through, or exiting a corner. Normally, the more steep the rake (fewer degrees), the more "twitchy" the bike feels.. It'll make it turn in much easier, but mid-corner stability will be sacrificed (IIRC.. grabbing info from a few years back, spooph should be able to correct though).

X has his bike dropped for better aerodynamics. Blackout is trying to make his bike handle the corners better (I'm assuming here ).

I accomplished something similar by installing a set of Woodcrafts and lowering the front of the bike by about an inch. I didn't notice much of a difference, but picking the back of the bike up a bit would do the same thing.

If you rack the back of the bike up too much, the bike will start to lift the tail under acceleration. As bikes work now, when you accelerate, the back end tries to squat from weight transfer, but the way the swingarm works counteracts the squat. Some bikes jack, some squat, some stay neutral. Lifting the back would introduce a more pronounced swingarm angle, and allow jacking more readily. Now, with all that said, the 250 doesn't have the power of something hellaciously torquey, like a big Harley or a Buell, so you may not see any ill-effects as far as raising the back of the bike.

Blackout: Sorry for a threadjack, but figured I could help Delta and hi-tech out a bit within your thread.

 

[spooph]

Keep us posted Blackout, I have no idea, nor what raising the rear suspension would do. I personally think the 250 is plenty twitchy, it becomes a bit of a hand-full at full-tilt in the canyons..... But more power to ya man. Make it happen and report back, you can always throw the stock parts back on, eh?

 

[Delta107]

Thanks for info! Sounds interesting keep us posted blackout.

 

[Blackout]

Better handling. Changing the rake of the forks will set the bike up for different behavior coming into, going through, or exiting a corner. Normally, the more steep the rake (fewer degrees), the more "twitchy" the bike feels.. It'll make it turn in much easier, but mid-corner stability will be sacrificed (IIRC.. grabbing info from a few years back, spooph should be able to correct though).

X has his bike dropped for better aerodynamics. Blackout is trying to make his bike handle the corners better (I'm assuming here ).

I accomplished something similar by installing a set of Woodcrafts and lowering the front of the bike by about an inch. I didn't notice much of a difference, but picking the back of the bike up a bit would do the same thing.

If you rack the back of the bike up too much, the bike will start to lift the tail under acceleration. As bikes work now, when you accelerate, the back end tries to squat from weight transfer, but the way the swingarm works counteracts the squat. Some bikes jack, some squat, some stay neutral. Lifting the back would introduce a more pronounced swingarm angle, and allow jacking more readily. Now, with all that said, the 250 doesn't have the power of something hellaciously torquey, like a big Harley or a Buell, so you may not see any ill-effects as far as raising the back of the bike.

Blackout: Sorry for a threadjack, but figured I could help Delta and hi-tech out a bit within your thread.

No apologies needed! Was a good read, and exactly what I am trying to accomplish.

I think the safest way would be going with a 0"/1"/2" on a triple adjuster link (three holes drilled out on a straight piece of steel dogbones, each further down the end away from the brass bushings)

I still can't find any *specific* 'busa lowering link that works the best, just any of them work fine, a '99 or an '09

The exact reason I was concerned was, as you mentioned Trav, I do not want to decrease the rake too much and start to really pay with a nasty lift in my rear end under, well, any 'heavy' acceleration. I am glad you clarified that it indeed was a physical reality if my rake becomes to steep.

It is a very cheap modification around $25, and I have heard stories of it increasing the feeling of flickablitiy pretty dramatically, also offers a more aggressive riding style.

I am going to go through with it. Thank you for the responses, any more info to point me in the right direction appreciated, otherwise I am going to snatch up a steel 0/1/2 busa link for 24$ shipped

Thanks Guizzzzze!