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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I've had my bike almost 2 months now and have some plans for it! And wanted to share thems and have a place to get some good feedback. When I got my bike the first thing I did was delete the mud flap! After that was done I lowered it a little more with the RT lowing kit that was already on the bike when I got it. Next I deleted the airbox snorkel, tho I'm not sure how I feel about this because I lost a good bit of low end.....but can't put it back in as I lost the snorkel! Ugh. So when I did that I also took off some of the paint on the rims, rather then doing the green strip like everyone else I wanted to be different! This took about 3 hours of my time to do both rims and I still need to polish the bead edge where I deleted the paint. My other plan over the winter is to dip the rims and then have them fully polished! I've never seen a sport bike with chrome/polished wheels and think it will look cool after the rest of my mod list is done.....


Next on the list while I'm doing the rims I will do a jet kit full exhaust and K&N airfilters....I also plan on upgrading the foot controls, handle grips, and gauges...as well as lower carbon fiber tank skirts and polishing the swing arm.... I will post some pics tonight of my bike as it sits now! (Can't post em with my blackberry lol) and as always I'm open to ideas thoughts and feedback! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dang Felix that looks sweet! Can I ask what that blue lookin thingie is next to the front break is? Is that a strap? if so what that for? :confused:
 

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Dang Felix that looks sweet! Can I ask what that blue lookin thingie is next to the front break is? Is that a strap? if so what that for? :confused:
Thanks, the strap on front brake is for drag racing, its a lowering strap. Just goes from caliper to caliper over the top of the frame and compresses the forks.

Easy way to lower the front of the bike just for racing.

Felix







 

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I think if you need it lower because you are short, that's a big advantage. A lot of people lower the Versys because it is a pretty tall bike. I did not feel very confident going from the 250 to the Versys with the big jump in height, and it's still a task to walk it backwards up any sort of slope at all. But I got used to it. If I had lowered it I don't think I would like it as well overall, but I'd likely feel more confident in manuevering it under my own power. If you need it lowered for that purpose, I'd say that's an advantage because dropping a bike SUCKS. (done that too)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oops I guess it would help to give more info now that I'm not driving at the moment ...lol I'm 5'10" in height, so that's really not why I'm askin...I was just wondering is lowing helps in curves or in handling at all? Since I got my bike in july I have seen a lot of sport bikes lowered and wondered what the deal was? I bought mine used and it came with the RT lowering stuff on it already! And I took off the handle bar blocks cuz I want the X race bars.... But if there's no real advantages for me to do it other then looks I think I'd just leave it mainly stock.

Thanks!
 

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Well, depending on how you're using the word "handling" lowering might enhance your handeling..

By lowering a bike you effectively increase the trail and wheelbase, that aids highspeed stability, and reduces flickability... SO, if you want a drag/land speed racer more stable at higher speeds in a straight line, you can improve the "handling" for those criteria by lowering the bike.

If however you want to circuit the bike and spend most of your time leaned over, especially on a small tight track where transitioning from one side to the next is most important, then actually raising the rear and lowering the front will reduce trail but keep the wheel base the same, making the bike twitchy - good for turn-in and transitioning, but might yield some wobbles up high (at the end of the back straight on a track).

I use racing as an example because it's where the bike will be pushed the most. So, if you plan on not doing either of these extremes, just make sure the bike is level; that the front is set as high as the rear, and you will have the bike which Kawi designed for the street... With all their resources and experience building bikes, I like to think that they know what's best for the majority of roads you'll be riding on...

what would be a better idea than changing the ride height around would be to enhance the suspension components (ie, racetech cartridge emulators in the forks and a piggy back reservoir tapped into the rear shock), and getting the preload set, etc, etc... But again, these things will only make themselves apparent if you plan on hitting the canyons at double the suggested corner speed (you know the little orange signs which say "35mph"). In fact, when my bike was stock, I got to a point where doubling the suggestion corner speed felt reasonably safe, and then I started futzing with my suspension.... Now a 35mph suggested corner can be taken at 80-90mph with room for safety to spare... Now I have too many tickets and have to ride like a geriatric anyway... so... yea.

Really, what do you need enhancement for? I'm not pointing the finger at you in any way, but more often than not the rider stands to improve a lot more than the bike...
 
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