I'd drain the floatbowls if you don't get a buyer in a month or 2 to avoid any problems, but that's about it.
Starting a Winterize Bike
To winterize my 250 I filled tank full, added fuel stabilizer, rode it home (25 min ride) then changed the oil & filter, drained carbs, connected to trickle charge.
I am in the process of selling it, I will need to start it up to show potential buyers it will start. Will letting it sit until spring even after starting it to show potential buyers it's in working condition be a bad thing? That's about 4 months away.
:NefRider:
I am in the process of selling it, I will need to start it up to show potential buyers it will start. Will letting it sit until spring even after starting it to show potential buyers it's in working condition be a bad thing? That's about 4 months away.
:NefRider:
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you already drained your carbs Unless your going to be selling it for sure. Then don't fill them until your ready toTo winterize my 250 I filled tank full, added fuel stabilizer, rode it home (25 min ride) then changed the oil & filter, drained carbs, connected to trickle charge. I am in the process of selling it, I will need to start it up to show potential buyers it will start. Will letting it sit until spring even after starting it to show potential buyers it's in working condition be a bad thing? That's about 4 months away. :NefRider:
Run it. Tell them it is winterized so unless the deal is going to happen you will leave the bike winterized. That's what I would do. Or you could have not winterized it
Might be a dumb question but how do you drain the float bowls? I always just turn the gas off and run it till it shuts off.
Close enough.....:thumb:Might be a dumb question but how do you drain the float bowls? I always just turn the gas off and run it till it shuts off.
I just change oil come time to put my baby away.....
NNnnnnn....add:
PRI Fuel Stabilizer - Gasoline [16 oz.] (Fuel Economy Booster) - Amazon.com
To my fuel.
Then seeing it's in a portable shed.....
I just start it up every few weeks for 5-10.....
I don't have carbs on the bike, but.......
Everything else i have that does , lawnmower, chainsaw, etc.......
All start right up when the time comes with no problems....
:dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance:
. That works pretty good too but it's not 100%. On bikes with multiple carbs it's a pain but outside bikes where a fairing has to be removed it literally only takes seconds. I will attach a picture. Literally. Open the screw and the fuel will pour out the drain. Some carbs don't have a drain screw. Almost all do. For the ones that don't. Depending how they are assembled it can be an easy job or a hard one. Some carbs have one bolt in the bottom of the bowl ( if you take the bolt out. The entire bowl will come off. You can take off then empty and put right back on.). Other carbs have four screws in the bottom.( very much a pain as you will probably need to remove the carburetor to access the screws. I don't suggest this). And finally some carb bowls are unscrew bowls. Meaning there are no bolts holding the bowl on. The bowl is threaded. ( can be unscrewed then emptied and put back on. I do not suggest this either. It's a pain plus hard to reseal if you can see it. ). Usually the unscrew type are on cheaply made motors. Like knock off four-wheelers or pit bikes. Not real motors per say. Hope this helpsMight be a dumb question but how do you drain the float bowls? I always just turn the gas off and run it till it shuts off.
here is the picture. That works pretty good too but it's not 100%. On bikes with multiple carbs it's a pain but outside bikes where a fairing has to be removed it literally only takes seconds. I will attach a picture. Literally. Open the screw and the fuel will pour out the drain. Some carbs don't have a drain screw. Almost all do. For the ones that don't. Depending how they are assembled it can be an easy job or a hard one. Some carbs have one bolt in the bottom of the bowl ( if you take the bolt out. The entire bowl will come off. You can take off then empty and put right back on.). Other carbs have four screws in the bottom.( very much a pain as you will probably need to remove the carburetor to access the screws. I don't suggest this). And finally some carb bowls are unscrew bowls. Meaning there are no bolts holding the bowl on. The bowl is threaded. ( can be unscrewed then emptied and put back on. I do not suggest this either. It's a pain plus hard to reseal if you can see it. ). Usually the unscrew type are on cheaply made motors. Like knock off four-wheelers or pit bikes. Not real motors per say. Hope this helps
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heres a few more. Notice no matter what the type of carb. The screw is always the recessed looking screw. Not the screw with the spring behind it!!!!!!here is the picture
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Now ima gunna hafta post a pic of my drain.......:whistling:
Wow thank you. I didn't know any if this.. That works pretty good too but it's not 100%. On bikes with multiple carbs it's a pain but outside bikes where a fairing has to be removed it literally only takes seconds. I will attach a picture. Literally. Open the screw and the fuel will pour out the drain. Some carbs don't have a drain screw. Almost all do. For the ones that don't. Depending how they are assembled it can be an easy job or a hard one. Some carbs have one bolt in the bottom of the bowl ( if you take the bolt out. The entire bowl will come off. You can take off then empty and put right back on.). Other carbs have four screws in the bottom.( very much a pain as you will probably need to remove the carburetor to access the screws. I don't suggest this). And finally some carb bowls are unscrew bowls. Meaning there are no bolts holding the bowl on. The bowl is threaded. ( can be unscrewed then emptied and put back on. I do not suggest this either. It's a pain plus hard to reseal if you can see it. ). Usually the unscrew type are on cheaply made motors. Like knock off four-wheelers or pit bikes. Not real motors per say. Hope this helps
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