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Right, so I'm a bit overwhelmed, not sure how I'm going to write this, I have A LOT to cover..... It's kinda funny really... I started out want to install steel braided brake lines and just kept running with the "Well, while I'm here, I might as well do this...."

I've finally decided to commit to the 250 (with the recent purchase of a car) and exact the changes I've been mulling over and dreaming about for the past 2 years. Here's the plan:

Phase 1: Getting the 250 in shape:
Optomizing stock parts:
1.) Return to stock setup, have it dyno tuned and get a base line figure of HP and A/F.
2.) Install data logger from Innovate to match A/F from baseline for future mods.
LM-2 Wideband O2 Digital Air/fuel Ratio Meter
3.) Install modified airbox, run dyno
4.) Install modified exhaust, run dyno
5.) Install flowed head, Have it dyno tuned.
Flow Bench
Optional: Install 13:1 pistons, run dyno.

So, while doing step 1 in this process, and having the bike mostly apart to replace the airbox I thought I'd do a few other things I've been wanting to for a while now, mostly aesthetic.





Original tires and knobbies tires from ice-riding experiments... I'll be getting rid of the knobbies and throw on some rubber for racing during the summer. If you're interested, this is probably also the last winter I'll be riding. I've turned into a pansy.:rolleyes:




Not having had a thorough cleaning in 40K, I thought I'd just pull the brakes apart and clean everything, paint the levers and calipers and during reassembly install the steel lines... Full write up here:



And then I decided to install the new head I bought since I stripped out the cam-cap cover threads, and while I'm in there, I might as well clean up the pistons and cylinder:


Head:


And while I was here, I might as well re-rebuild the cam chain tensioner, being that I now had an extra set of hands and failed to do it last time. Complete DIY here: http://www.newninja.com/forums/f104/diy-cam-chain-tensioner-rebuild-5684.html#post145296


The bike looked like this:


So, while the body is off, I might as well install the Travisty turn signals which I've thought were the coolest things since sliced bread when I first say them: http://www.newninja.com/forums/f98/my-take-on-flush-mounts-4014.html



I will be updated this thread with the general progress on the bike, and making individual threads for the various side projects for future searcheability. Stay tuned, and as always, input is appreciated! ;D
 

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That looks like a good start Spooph! Bring on the rest!!!
 

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This is going to be fun .I am not a big fan of self adjusting cam chain tensioner s.They do not hold the cam timing as well as a fixed one will. For your testing purposes it would be more consistent . ZX Zone - Cam Sprockets and Tensioners

When you get to the adjustable cam timing sprockets you will see how the slightest change makes a big difference in cylinder pressure and the amount of timing you can use.
ZX Zone - Cam Sprockets and Tensioners

My bet is 26hp stock and just under 30 like 28.9 hp with stock pistons and everything else done.It will be great to have it documented.
 

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So... once you buy that wide band A\F ratio thingamajigger.... could I borrow it? I'll send you the cost of the unit to hold until I return it, you keep a few $$ of course :). I've been wanting to get my bike on a dyno but damn they're expensive and no one in my area has one :(.

Looking forward to thread updates spooph!
 

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Because at the end of my testing it would be sent back working and I would get the majority of the $$ back :p. I don't have 400$'s to spend on a unit, but I could go without 400$'s for a week or two.

So, from what I gather it basically samples the exhaust and tells you how you are running?
 

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I want one :(. Well, if you are open to the idea after you buy it and get your stuff done lemme know? I'd appreciate it quite a bit, I don't feel like driving 100miles for a dyno then paying for the time on the damn thing which may or may not be calibrated correctly.

Subscribed, I look forward to see what you do to your starburst red beast!
 

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If you want to use any type of AF gauge .You need to have an O2 sensor bung in the head pipe and you have to block off the clean air system that puts air into the exhaust through the top of the valve cover.
You can get an AF gauge for a lot less than the LM2 .The LM2 is a data logger that has RPM and other inputs.

For less than 100 dollars you can get an Autometer gauge and a cheap sensor. The sensor comes with a bung but sticks into the exhaust causing a restriction. the Innovate gauge uses a different O2 sensor and that system goes For 200 dollars. The Innovate sensor dose not block the exhaust at all.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Inno...QptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_2834wt_820


Autometer Sport-Comp Air Fuel Ratio Gauge - eBay (item 180637997899 end time Mar-15-11 12:28:25 PDT)

Bosch 15739 Universal Oxygen Sensor O2 Sensor - eBay (item 230591165537 end time Mar-29-11 01:44:46 PDT)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OK, so update. Waiting on LED's from China, trying to find a dyno shop to run a dyno for a reasonable price, and weighing the next purchase: Woodcraft clip-ons (I've given up on local machine shops), Yoshimura rear-set relocators, Innovate data-logger + o2 sensor, or Danmoto exhaust...

To keep working on increasing the power I need the Innovate data-logger and o2 sensor, but this isn't necessary until after the dyno.

The clip-ons, rearset adjuster plates and exhaust are all clearance/position oriented for the track.

I also need to budget in a new set of tires very soon.... All in all, that's about $600 worth of stuff. I can spare $50/week to save for these things... Where do I put my money first?
 
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