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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SUPER easy maintenance to do. I check my brake pads by looking down the length of the rotor, almost directly in front of the front wheel. When they get worn down, I pick up some replacements for $30 and throw them on in about 20 minutes. If you have ABSOLUTELY NO mechanical experience, you can definitely do this in about 30-40 minutes....

I used basic, stock compound, EBC replacements. Whatever the shop gave me.... I will upgrade to a grippier compound one day, but I need steel brake lines first.... If somebody does the rear brake pads, do a write up and post behind this post so we can keep everything together, yea? If I end up doing it, they will join later on...

The caliper on the wheel in fully functioning order, with old, very worn pads on it. Break the two "pad pins" loose, but do not take them out. Take out the two shiny bolts that secure it to the fork.


Remove the caliper from the wheel, unscrew the pad pins and remove them.


Old pads vs. New


Old pads vs. New. the old pads had NOTHING left, I wore them down to the BARE METAL - not recommended... I like to get my money's worth. :p I could also NOT use my front brake for the last 20 miles because I WOULD HAVE scored the rotor. I think the manual recommends 1mm left before replacement.


With pads removed, use a C-clamp to compress the brake pistons. You could use the old pads to compress both pistons equally, but I did them individually... Not necessarily a "better" way, just a preference. WITH a pad in, they will compress equally, but you might catch the spring and bend it that keep them where they need to be... By doing each individually, you have to go back and forth to equalize them a bit...





The left compressed


Compressing the right


Semi-equal. Good enough.


New pads fitted:


Pad pins replaced. Need to be fully tightened. After this, mount back on the front wheel, and replace the two fork bolts. Make sure these suckers are TIGHT. Don't brake the bolts, and I'm too lazy to go look up the torque setting. Eric? Haha..


Next, make ABSOLUTELY SURE to fully compress the front brake again. Currently, the pistons are backed up COMPLETELY, so your brake pads are NOT in contact with your rotor. This could be a nasty surprise when you pull out, so MAKE SURE you compress them before you ride the bike again. The lever easily went to the handlebar under no compression.


This is what the lever should look like with LOTS of pressure on it when it's fully compressed.




VERY IMPORTANT: YOUR NEW BRAKE PADS NEED TO BE BROKEN IN. THEY WILL NOT STOP YOU AS FAST AS YOUR USED TO IF THEY HAVEN'T BEEN SCUFFED IN. I RECOMMEND TAKING THE BIKE ON A STRAIGHT BACK ROAD AND RUNNING IT UP TO 40 OR 50 MPH AND BRAKING HARD TWO OR THREE TIMES. This will ensure that the brakes are completely seated on the rotor, and have any residue, etc, worn off, and will give you lots of brake grip.

ENJOY!
 

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Re: Replacing the Brake pads

Re spooph:
and I'm too lazy to go look up the torque setting. Eric? Haha..

Hey man it'll be midnight in a couple of minutes and I'm planning on a good night sleep.Don't spoil me that.
Good work though.
 

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Re: Replacing the Brake pads

Thanks for the sweet info. Can't u just place this on the how to? Section?? Again thanks for the write up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: Replacing the Brake pads

Thanks all.

gummybear, I ride the entire bike hard, all the time. :p

Hitech - when I posted this the "how-to" didn't have a "new topic" button, which is why I posted it here. If Red wants to move it, cool.
 

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Re: Replacing the Brake pads

Spooh, This is also a good time to check the brake fluid level, inspect the rotor and clean any brake dust and residue from the caliper with a little brake cleaner.

caliper bolt torque is 18 ft lbs
service limit for front rotor 4.0mm
service limit for rear rotor 4.5mm
 

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Re: Replacing the Brake pads

How many miles did you have those?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: Replacing the Brake pads

Ghost, indeed it is! I threw an eye on the reservoir window, and everything still feels nice and tight (but I really need some steel braided lines), so I didn't much bother. I also tend to wash my bike about once a week/2 week, so everything was pretty darn clean. Your suggestion is A-spec, and should be followed, thanks for including it! Oh, and the specs.

Crispy, I had roughly 14,000 miles on these, including a track day. First time they've been changed. They should have been toast around 10,000 but when I first got the bike I tended to drag brake with the rear a lot more until somebody told me that on the open road, with good conditions there is really no need for the rear brakes. SO I stopped using the rear almost entirely. I also tend to engine brake A LOT, so I guess I made them last a little longer.
 

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Re: Replacing the Brake pads

That's a lot of miles, just checked mine and they practically look new.
 

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Re: Replacing the Brake pads

When I change brake pads I make sure that I bleed the fluid when I compress it so it doesn't shoot the fluid back through. It doesn't take much fluid out so you will not add any when your finished
 

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i do have a question. i just replaced the front brake pads on my 08 ninja 250 and everything went fine. i squeezed the trigger to build the pressure back up in the line, however when i release the brake lever the brake really doesn't let go of the rotor.
While its not completely stopping the wheel from rolling, it is rubbing on it much more then my old pads were. i only changed the pads and not the fluid. could that have something to do with it? maybe to much pressure? or is this normal and the pads just need to be broken in some more?
any advice would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Moved your response to a more appropriate thread.

Sounds like your brake has been contaminated. If you didn't clean the pistons before pushing them back into the caliper you could have contaminated the fluid, or pushed air into the system. I recommend to bleed your brakes after changing the pads, at least, if not completely flush the system with new brake fluid...
 
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