Joined
·
5,699 Posts
SUPER easy maintenance to do. I check my brake pads by looking down the length of the rotor, almost directly in front of the front wheel. When they get worn down, I pick up some replacements for $30 and throw them on in about 20 minutes. If you have ABSOLUTELY NO mechanical experience, you can definitely do this in about 30-40 minutes....
I used basic, stock compound, EBC replacements. Whatever the shop gave me.... I will upgrade to a grippier compound one day, but I need steel brake lines first.... If somebody does the rear brake pads, do a write up and post behind this post so we can keep everything together, yea? If I end up doing it, they will join later on...
The caliper on the wheel in fully functioning order, with old, very worn pads on it. Break the two "pad pins" loose, but do not take them out. Take out the two shiny bolts that secure it to the fork.
![]()
Remove the caliper from the wheel, unscrew the pad pins and remove them.
![]()
Old pads vs. New
![]()
Old pads vs. New. the old pads had NOTHING left, I wore them down to the BARE METAL - not recommended... I like to get my money's worth.
I could also NOT use my front brake for the last 20 miles because I WOULD HAVE scored the rotor. I think the manual recommends 1mm left before replacement.
![]()
With pads removed, use a C-clamp to compress the brake pistons. You could use the old pads to compress both pistons equally, but I did them individually... Not necessarily a "better" way, just a preference. WITH a pad in, they will compress equally, but you might catch the spring and bend it that keep them where they need to be... By doing each individually, you have to go back and forth to equalize them a bit...
![]()
![]()
The left compressed
![]()
Compressing the right
![]()
Semi-equal. Good enough.
![]()
New pads fitted:
![]()
Pad pins replaced. Need to be fully tightened. After this, mount back on the front wheel, and replace the two fork bolts. Make sure these suckers are TIGHT. Don't brake the bolts, and I'm too lazy to go look up the torque setting. Eric? Haha..
![]()
Next, make ABSOLUTELY SURE to fully compress the front brake again. Currently, the pistons are backed up COMPLETELY, so your brake pads are NOT in contact with your rotor. This could be a nasty surprise when you pull out, so MAKE SURE you compress them before you ride the bike again. The lever easily went to the handlebar under no compression.
![]()
This is what the lever should look like with LOTS of pressure on it when it's fully compressed.
![]()
VERY IMPORTANT: YOUR NEW BRAKE PADS NEED TO BE BROKEN IN. THEY WILL NOT STOP YOU AS FAST AS YOUR USED TO IF THEY HAVEN'T BEEN SCUFFED IN. I RECOMMEND TAKING THE BIKE ON A STRAIGHT BACK ROAD AND RUNNING IT UP TO 40 OR 50 MPH AND BRAKING HARD TWO OR THREE TIMES. This will ensure that the brakes are completely seated on the rotor, and have any residue, etc, worn off, and will give you lots of brake grip.
ENJOY!
I used basic, stock compound, EBC replacements. Whatever the shop gave me.... I will upgrade to a grippier compound one day, but I need steel brake lines first.... If somebody does the rear brake pads, do a write up and post behind this post so we can keep everything together, yea? If I end up doing it, they will join later on...
The caliper on the wheel in fully functioning order, with old, very worn pads on it. Break the two "pad pins" loose, but do not take them out. Take out the two shiny bolts that secure it to the fork.
Remove the caliper from the wheel, unscrew the pad pins and remove them.
Old pads vs. New
Old pads vs. New. the old pads had NOTHING left, I wore them down to the BARE METAL - not recommended... I like to get my money's worth.
I could also NOT use my front brake for the last 20 miles because I WOULD HAVE scored the rotor. I think the manual recommends 1mm left before replacement.
With pads removed, use a C-clamp to compress the brake pistons. You could use the old pads to compress both pistons equally, but I did them individually... Not necessarily a "better" way, just a preference. WITH a pad in, they will compress equally, but you might catch the spring and bend it that keep them where they need to be... By doing each individually, you have to go back and forth to equalize them a bit...
The left compressed
Compressing the right
Semi-equal. Good enough.
New pads fitted:
Pad pins replaced. Need to be fully tightened. After this, mount back on the front wheel, and replace the two fork bolts. Make sure these suckers are TIGHT. Don't brake the bolts, and I'm too lazy to go look up the torque setting. Eric? Haha..
Next, make ABSOLUTELY SURE to fully compress the front brake again. Currently, the pistons are backed up COMPLETELY, so your brake pads are NOT in contact with your rotor. This could be a nasty surprise when you pull out, so MAKE SURE you compress them before you ride the bike again. The lever easily went to the handlebar under no compression.
This is what the lever should look like with LOTS of pressure on it when it's fully compressed.
VERY IMPORTANT: YOUR NEW BRAKE PADS NEED TO BE BROKEN IN. THEY WILL NOT STOP YOU AS FAST AS YOUR USED TO IF THEY HAVEN'T BEEN SCUFFED IN. I RECOMMEND TAKING THE BIKE ON A STRAIGHT BACK ROAD AND RUNNING IT UP TO 40 OR 50 MPH AND BRAKING HARD TWO OR THREE TIMES. This will ensure that the brakes are completely seated on the rotor, and have any residue, etc, worn off, and will give you lots of brake grip.
ENJOY!
