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Have you got someone experience who can help you out?
If not, I would not attempt it personally.
 

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So its time for a new rear tire on my 2011 650r. I was wondering how hard it is removing the wheel myself without cutting the chain vs taking the whole bike to the shop. What do you guys think?
it's very easy. The harder part is putting it back in. To do this you will simply break the axel bolt free by removing the coder pin if you have one and spinning the nut usually a 17mm socket. Then on both sides of the swing arm loosen the retaining nut and then the placement nuts byt going all the way in. Push tire forward pill the chain off. Remove the axel nut and axel and off comes the tire. Not before you put it back on. You need to take a screw driver. Put it between the brake pads on the rear and pry them apart. Don't get crazy here your only trying to decompress the brake cylinder not brake the pads. Then roll the tire in place put the chain on it. Lift the brake assembly n place Then lift the tire and out the axel back in. It's tricky but take your time and make sure the brake assembly is in the groves it supposed to be in and you will be fine. Slide the axel in and lightly hand tighten the nut. Do not tighten it tightly. Then use the placement nuts to tighten the chain and put the wheel straight. Use the axel sliders and the grooves to line the wheel up straight. Check the chain tension again. The important. Spin the wheel forward a few full rotations Check the axel sliders again to be even on both sides and adjust if necessary then spin again and check. Check the chain tension to have a 3/4 inch slack at maximum and a 1/4 inch minimum. Once all is lined up and straight the way it's supposed to be tight the axel nut. Tighten to about 100 inch lbs and out the coder pin back in. And done.

twisted throttles brings me smiles
 

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On my 650 the wheel alignment mark are very UN-Accurate.....
I measure from my swingarm bolt center to the axle bolt center to get close.
Then after spinning the tire a bit check to see if ur chain is running center of the sprocket.
Adjust to get ur chain running in the center of the sprocket even.
Then u also got to adjust for slack in ur chain.
My adjustment notches are a whole notch off when everything is running straight.
And remember...... if ur chain is to tight....u will toast it very fast.
A bit loose is much better then to tight......








 

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Oh and could you explain the wheel alignment in a lil more depth? I see the notches on the side but how do i use those to straighten my wheel?
so on the rear axel slider. Some have center marks on the slider some don't. But if you do. The center line and the front forward edge are purposely half a line different to help you get to a line on the swing arm. Look on the picture I sent of the zx10. You can see the center line above and below center of the axel bolt., you can also see the front line on the axel slider which is where the alignment bolts are which can also be seen. So if you loosen the nut against the swing arm. Then turn the head of the other bolt into the swing arm the tire goes forward. Or if you turn the head out of the swing arm the tire will go back. Pick the center or the front line to use and make them the same on both sides. Hope this helps

twisted throttles brings me smiles
 

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Cool. One last question. What are the chain tension bolts actually attached to? I was just wondering how its relative to the axle bolt.
they screw into the swing arm. And what they do is with help of the axel sliders the push the axel away from the swing arm front which allows the chain to get tension or be relived from it. The tension bolts are also used to ensure the rear wheel is straight on the bike by way of the swing arm lines preventing uneven tire wear. Tracking. And center of balance issues. All n all they allow you to straighten the wheel while tensioning the chain properly. Both are important and both need to be correct

twisted throttles brings me smiles
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok I just wanted to make sure i wouldn't booger anything up when I took the tire off. Didnt know it they screwed into the axle or what. I knew they ran into the swingarm on each side just didn't know what they did after that
 

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Ok I just wanted to make sure i wouldn't booger anything up when I took the tire off. Didnt know it they screwed into the axle or what. I knew they ran into the swingarm on each side just didn't know what they did after that
Not sure bout urs...?
My adjusters slide into holes in the swingarm as ur adjusting.
I'll go get a pic in a bit after i put groceries away....
I do know each side on my 2012 have some spacers on each side between the swingarm n the wheel.
Each side is different...mark them.....
I clean n used a majic marker to mark things....L for Left...R for right....
Or...C for chain side n B for brake side....U decide...
Also u will n should use rim protectors........or u make damage ur rim...
U will also need good tire spoons...
Ifnnnn u don't have all this don't even try to do it.....
:facepalm:








 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh I'm gunna leave the tire removal and installation to the pros. Was just tryin to avoid gettin bent over for 55 dollars lol that's crappy ya know? If I bring the whole wheel and new tire its 15 bucks. 55 if I bring the entire bike in. Its highway robbery
 

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Loosen the lock nut be4 turning the adjuster nut



Mark the spacers chain or brake side...



This part is a bitch, but not really hard.....get er done



It just takes a bitta common sence....n just go slow....mark stuff...








 
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