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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all!


Besides this post- my only other post has been in the Introductions forum, so yeah.. I have that new bike smell all over me.


Picked up my '08 250r about three weeks back, just shy of 1k on the odometer. Decided because the bike was not ridden too much last season and has been sitting with older oil and a quarter tank of gas, I would drop it off to my local Kawasaki Powersports dealership for them to give me a 'seasonal tune-up'.

they quoted me around 150 bucks for if it is just the normal deal, which sounded reasonable to me once I compared it to my researched prices for similar things, so I let them come pick it up three days back and am yet to hear from a tech guy.

ANYWAY- my questions here:

1) What does a normal tune-up consist of? Is it something like: air filer, plugs, oil change, all fluid change, flushing out the gas tank, retorquing the bike etc.? That is some of the stuff he had rattled off before my baby was shoved onto the back of his pickup, strapped in tight, and drove away from me :(

2) I have just about finished buying my full gear, which I got alot of useful information from all of you lurking in the dark about gear choice threads. I have got kevlar lined denims, a 150~ buck range HJC helmet (matte black with blacked out windscreen) with nice air scoops for breathable conditions, Alpinestars gauntlet-type summer gloves, and a full spine spike/body armor protector Joe Rocket jacket with the Kawi branded all over it in black/yellow.
(only thing left is my boots which I want to goto my cycle gear for instead of online shopping) so I wanted some suggestions about some good, reliable boots at a reasonable price for the summer. Something I feel I can wear out and walk around in for a good while after my ride.

3) As far as bike modifications, the first thing I wanted to do was get an HMF slip on with powder coat black/gold euro tip- but here is my question: do I get the bike rejetted or shim the needles for this? I do not fully understand what it means for a bike to run lean or rich, but all I know is I want it to run correctly and have the correct back pressure for the bike. Please give your suggestion on what I should do after getting the HMF pipe installed, and please if you could give me a price range of how much the entire project would cost at a normal shop including labor. My other option was to get my stock exhaust chopped and go short tank, but I am unsure if a normal bike shop is willing to do this or not? And if so, would I rejet/shim needles for this and what would you estimate the cost of this to be as well?

Thank you for reading and replying. I know this is a damn bible of a question, but for a second post, I thought I would get it ALLLLLL out!
 

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1.) All that stuff. They basically just go over the bike and make sure everything is still right. Fluids (brake, coolant, oil), chain (clean, lube, adjust), clean out the fuel system (tank, lines, carbs - usually with a solution, they don't take everything apart), check the air filter, check the axles and headbearings, check the clutch, tires, wheels, etc.... It really depends on the shop...

2.) I really like my A-Star Harlems, and they come in an "Air" version for really hot areas. I did a write-up in the "GEAR" thread.... But you're best bet is to go to a dealer, as you said you're going to, and fit 'em, and walk all over the store with them on.... I used to wear full-size race boots all day long at work, and after a while it really starts chafing your calfs... I'd recommend an ankle-high boot, not a calf-high boot...

3.) If you just add the can you prolly won't have to shim, nevermind re-jetting. If you get a full system, you'll have to re-jet, and won't get away with just shimming. To install an exhaust on the ninja is about an hour's worth of work, to re-jet is about another hour, so multiple 2 by your shop's hourly rate and that's that, eh? Or just ask them, they'll know. If you do it yourself, 2 jets should cost you $6.00, and I think the full HMF system is just under $500?

Delta?

Figure in about 8 hours on a weekend to do the install, if you've never taken a bike apart..... Gummybear has an awesome write-up using a yoshi system for install and such, and the HMF is very close... The re-jetting/tuning is the exact same....

Hope this helps, ask more questions.
 

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http://www.superbiketoystore.com/cruiser/Boots/Alpinestars-Harlem-Air-Boots/prod_1345.html

Harlem Air Boots, Spooph rates them, I'm getting a pair soon.

I use Sidi Vertigo's, great boots, lots of protection, not the best for spending all day walking in.

As for shimming, slipon or not, shim the needles, the bike will thank you. If you get it done in a shop, they will jet it for you, costs I'm not sure on, different countries sorry.

Felix



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I only wear my sidis for riding, I either carry a change of shoes in a backpack or leave a pairs at work to change into, wouldn't want to wear them for any non-riding purposes.
 

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spooph said:
You rang?

Geek Moment. Anyways per my thread: http://www.newninja.com/modification-q-a/4th-generation-%2808%27-on-up%29-ninja-250r-aftermarket-partsaccessories!/msg50265/#msg50265

You can buy a Jet kit which comes with man jets and all that crap for $75 - $100. Or you can buy single jets for around $6.
linky: http://www.jetsrus.com/main_page.htm

Jet Kits!
Factory Pro
http://www.factorypro.com/

Dynojet
http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motorcycle/kawasaki.aspx

I have the ICON Superduty 2 Boots I love them you can walk in them but if you plan on going to the mall or something just bring your favorite pair of shoes or flip flops
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the great input, guys.. so let me get this straight:


Boots: I really like the ones that spooph suggested. I believe I will see if they have these at cyclegear tomorrow and try a pair on.

Rejetting: If I get the slip on HMF exhaust, I will not need to rejet. I should, however, shim the needles? and this costs how much at a shop, to shim needles?

AND if I get the HMF ehxaust installed at a shop, they will rejet it for me?
 

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I doubt a shop will shim your needles, if you have basic mech skills you can do it your self with the online tutorials.

I would imagine a shop would do a rejet for you, but if I was you (if you didn't feel comfortable doing the shims) install the slipon yourself (easy) and then get a rejet when you get it serviced.

Felix



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D, thanks a bunch!

I agree with Felix. Install the slip-on, and at least give the shimming a go. If you take your time, post with questions (with photos and hopefully videos), you can do it and it will only make your feel goods feel good.... A shop will not shim needles for you... "Shimming the needles" is something created as an adaptation by racers-on-a-budget back in the day, who couldn't afford nothed needles, etc, or the way to make minute changes to your air/fuel before notched needles existed, I would guess. Either way, we have a great thread on shimming the needles in how-to. Check it out and post back here with more q's...

And yes, if you install the slip-on, the shop will rejet your bike for you... They won't like it, because they would prefer to charge you for installing the slip-on as well, but "se la vi"...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
spooph said:
D, thanks a bunch!

I agree with Felix. Install the slip-on, and at least give the shimming a go. If you take your time, post with questions (with photos and hopefully videos), you can do it and it will only make your feel goods feel good.... A shop will not shim needles for you... "Shimming the needles" is something created as an adaptation by racers-on-a-budget back in the day, who couldn't afford nothed needles, etc, or the way to make minute changes to your air/fuel before notched needles existed, I would guess. Either way, we have a great thread on shimming the needles in how-to. Check it out and post back here with more q's...

And yes, if you install the slip-on, the shop will rejet your bike for you... They won't like it, because they would prefer to charge you for installing the slip-on as well, but "se la vi"...

Awesome- I am ordering the pipe today. I believe I want to get the black chrome powder with the gold euro tip, since that is sort of the color scheme I want to bring to the bike, but I might just go all black or black and a polished euro tip. Either way, getting the bike rejetted will be awesome indeedily- and I will atleast try and shim the needles myself. I am going to go search for the thread to help me do that and get aquainted more with my bike :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey guys- just got off the phone with my tech guy- he went over my bike and told me that the full tune up with parts will run me from 180-200 bucks. I asked him about installing frame sliders and he said it would be around 130 with the part included.. Thought that was a little much? Also, they DID say they would shim the needles if I install the slip on. They would charge me 40 bucks to install the slip on. He is going to give me an exact esitmate on the needle shimming when he calls me back. Does all this sound pretty right to you guys?
 

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Anything you can do yourself, do it. Labor costs are the bulk of what you pay. Aftermarket parts and mods, especially if it is bolt-on, I say do it yourself, learn how to, or get someone to help out. If I am uncomfortable doing a mod myself then I am more than willing to pay someone to do it for me.

On parts, shop around, compare different brands. Look for quality as well as price.
 

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Blackout, 180-200 to check the whole bike is not bad... It will prolly take them about an hour and a half, if they actually do everything they say they will.... So it's reasonable - you're also paying for their knowledge and training.... It would take somebody else quite a bit longer to do... It's a dealership. It's expensive. If you don't want to keep paying these types of fees order a factory manual, or steal the one that's been posted here on line and get yourself educated - I know you've said you are going to, already, I'm just re-iterating...

Which sliders will they install? If it's anything but the Shogun's, it's a waste of money. If it's the Shoguns, it's a really good deal, cause I bought my shoguns for $125 I think, and they are definitely the best setup for the 250. Super rigid and solid, and they make great high-way pegs....

$40 to install the slip-on? You kidding me? It takes like 5 minutes! screw that...

Shimming the needles is sooper easy to do, but to pay somebody to do it will be expensive... We have write-ups for both removing the fairings/tank, and shimming the needles.... If you pay them to shim the needles, you might as well go the extra and have them re-jet the bike perfectly. Why, cause to be able to shim the needles you have to get to the carbs, meaning, you have to take off the fairings and tank. If the bike is that far disassembled, they might as well go the extra step and remove the carbs to re-jet them.... It might be a significant amount more, but hell, it would be worth it in the end, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
spooph said:
Blackout, 180-200 to check the whole bike is not bad... It will prolly take them about an hour and a half, if they actually do everything they say they will.... So it's reasonable - you're also paying for their knowledge and training.... It would take somebody else quite a bit longer to do... It's a dealership. It's expensive. If you don't want to keep paying these types of fees order a factory manual, or steal the one that's been posted here on line and get yourself educated - I know you've said you are going to, already, I'm just re-iterating...

Which sliders will they install? If it's anything but the Shogun's, it's a waste of money. If it's the Shoguns, it's a really good deal, cause I bought my shoguns for $125 I think, and they are definitely the best setup for the 250. Super rigid and solid, and they make great high-way pegs....

$40 to install the slip-on? You kidding me? It takes like 5 minutes! screw that...

Shimming the needles is sooper easy to do, but to pay somebody to do it will be expensive... We have write-ups for both removing the fairings/tank, and shimming the needles.... If you pay them to shim the needles, you might as well go the extra and have them re-jet the bike perfectly. Why, cause to be able to shim the needles you have to get to the carbs, meaning, you have to take off the fairings and tank. If the bike is that far disassembled, they might as well go the extra step and remove the carbs to re-jet them.... It might be a significant amount more, but hell, it would be worth it in the end, IMO.
Quote on the shimming: 60 if they get in on the first shot, no more then 100. They are an eighty buck an hour dealership. My point for bringing it to a dealership that I would have to pay more for everything is: First year riding, First bike, No know-how, and wouldn't know if I was wrong or right. For the amount of time it would take me to aquaint myself with something mechanically to the point I felt comfortable doing it for myself *e.g., changing the oil on my car.. or "cage" as you call it :) * would be longer then the point to where weather conditions here are suitable for riding. But thanks for all the info Onslaught, Spooph, and Felix- I am definetly going to start reading away asap and I promise you next time I get/need to get one of these things done, I will post full pictures of my hands-on experience. :)

By the way Spooph- I am not sure what part it is. He told me the part was probably 80 bucks, and about 40-50 for installation. I believe he needs to modify the fairings for it to fit properly.. I don't know if I want this done.


*edit

oh, and I am electing to install the pipe by myself atleast. I figure I will take pictures and make a walk-thru to post for the HMF pipe, if one does not already exist. I also am going to swap out my windscreen myself, but if I took it to a dealership for that, I would be mechanically DEclined haha.

Thanks fam'
 

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There are different styles/types/brands of frame sliders, cut, no-cut. All depends on what you want and how you want it installed.

I cut my fairings to accommodate my frame sliders cause I wanted the slider bolt to go straight into the engine hole from the engine bolt removed. I felt this was the strongest point. No-cut off-sets the bolt point but leaves the fairing intact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Felix said:
It's not just about saving money, its about becoming one with the motorcycle...

:D

Felix
Haha, well I would love to become one with beyonce, but I feel me and her have already grown quite aquainted in the 30 miles I have carriaged her around my campus early, early morning- with no plates nor active insurance :)

I just like things to be perfect- and KNOW they are the best they can be.. which is kind of ironic, because if someone else does the work.. how do I know it is done AT ALL!? arghhh..

Bottom line- I know what you are saying Felix, most def need to get more info on anything I can. Can someone point me in the direction of the copies user manual?
 
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