Hello all, I live in Los Angeles, CA and I just changed my oil recently for my 07 Ninja 250. Before the change i was using Valvoline 10w-40 motorcycle oil and bike ran fine. Ran it to around 5k miles. I ended up having an emergency so i changed the oil with the engine cold. After changing i realized I bought and put in Valvoline 20w-50. After pouring i tried to start it to to let it set in and then pour to the required level. This was the first problem. I put the choke on and it would not start. My bike has always needed full choke to turn on then i slowly decrease it. Most of the time i ride off then decrease it as i go though as im always in a hurry. But the choke was not working at all. Finally managed to get it to work and full choke it was at 3k rpm which is much lower than usual. I then poured the oil needed then noticed that the oil was yellowish/chunkyish and was bubbly. I searched on the forum and that is common apparently. But bike was not starting well and choke wasnt working. Ive managed to have the choke work after revving it manually to about 9k rpm then releasing. When bike warms up it runs amazing and better than before as ive read with 20w-50. But the problem is getting it started cold now. Im thinking of doing a whole oil change again? Not sure what i should do. What do you guys think?
Problems after changing oil
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
So yellow oil huh. Yellow oil is an indicator of oil or heavy condensation. Hows your antifreeze level? Are you losing antifreeze? If not it could be condensation oil water in the oil mixture. Was the filter changed as well. Was it wet? What temperature is it where you are? The temp can cause the condensation to show up in cold temps but as you ride the bike you will inevitably increase the bikes temperature or oil and water and at that point when the bike is good and hot. You should check the oil. If its still yellow you may have a huge problem and you need to
Fix it before you ride it again. This all should be done quickly to avoid rust in the motor on internal parts. As far as the not wanting to start. That sounds too like water in the gas. Put in a water treatment then ride the gas out of the tank completely or drain the tank and add good gas. Hope this helps
Fix it before you ride it again. This all should be done quickly to avoid rust in the motor on internal parts. As far as the not wanting to start. That sounds too like water in the gas. Put in a water treatment then ride the gas out of the tank completely or drain the tank and add good gas. Hope this helps
So coolant is still good. Little on the lower side but not underneath the L. Oil is now clear after riding it past two days due to emergency. It would start but it is kind of cold here so starting has always been a problem. It needs the choke to stay on. And that is not working properly. Once it is warmed up it runs perfectly. Only problem is getting it started due to choke it seems now.
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
So the choke has to stay on? And as far as the bike being harder to start id say its probably a combination of things to include the thicker heavier oil being added to the bike. In cold weather you should run a oil that is slightly lighter. In winters 10w-40 and in warmer temps 20w-50. This to ensure oil is staying on the internal parts after the motor is shut off for cold starting as well as for part coverage. The other thing Id say could be making it harder to start would be bad gas. Try draining a carburatuer bowl into a glass jar and see if dirt or water is present. If they are this confirms it to be bad gas which also can contribute to having to leave the choke on. Hope this helps
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
For better starting and running you may want to use a better spark plug, make sure you've got good gas, a good clean air filter and clean well adjusted carbs.
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
