Oil leak.
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Epoxy......
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Unless it poked a hole n u have to worry about a chunka metal that mite of fell in there....?..:facepalm:
Then a tear down will be needed....
I used epoxy one time on a atv that i hit a rock n cracked the engine case....:facepalm:
I used a 2 part epoxy with some nylon type cloth i had n patched it....:thumb:
Worked fine for 3-4 years, then i sold it.....:dance:
The person that bought it ran it another couple years that way n sold it himself....:thumb:
Looks like the bolt for the slider was too long.
Does oil spray out of it when the engine is running? It's odd that there's a significant amount of oil above the damaged area.
To repair it, it will need to be absolutely clean. I would get a shorter slider bolt while you are at it. I'd clean it out with brake or contact cleaner and get some of the filler way inside the hole. JB Weld may be the best choice for a filler. After you clean it and work the filler in the hole you may need to put a piece of tape over the opening to keep the JB from flowing out.
Make sure the new slider bolt doesn't go in far enough to touch the repair it it will pop it out just like it did in the first place.
Does oil spray out of it when the engine is running? It's odd that there's a significant amount of oil above the damaged area.
To repair it, it will need to be absolutely clean. I would get a shorter slider bolt while you are at it. I'd clean it out with brake or contact cleaner and get some of the filler way inside the hole. JB Weld may be the best choice for a filler. After you clean it and work the filler in the hole you may need to put a piece of tape over the opening to keep the JB from flowing out.
Make sure the new slider bolt doesn't go in far enough to touch the repair it it will pop it out just like it did in the first place.
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looks like the bolt was too long as said. You can weld it but it requires you to use helium to weld it. Cast aluminum top end I'm pretty sure
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that's a good start but more than likely you will have to pull then engine. Just make sure you disconnect everything and don't just drop the engine down without double and triple checking all the electrical lines and connections.
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yeah can't see it but it needs to be ridiculously clean if he plans on welding it pretty. Plus usually a frame slider is mounted through some part of the frame therefore the frame should be in the way. Dropping a motor isn't as bad as you think but it's time consuming
I don't think you'd even need the piece to weld that shut.
It would need to be very clean all the way around and inside, and you'd need someone with very good TIG welding skills. Because it's cast, you may need to preheat the area before striking an arc.
Make sure to absolutely keep that bolt away from the repair area. How did a bolt that's too long get there in the first place?
Welding it properly with the correct rod and a TIG welder would be the best repair for that.
I might have a talk with the company about that.
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I ordered the frame sliders from eBay.... Which might be a problem haha. But a guy at work who's a really good tig welder told me to leave it in the bike and he said there should be no problem welding it just how it is he said to back the bolt out cut it down and clean out the threads and the area where it broke and he said he can weld it
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sounds like a go then. If his argon isn't doing the trick he will likely need helium to weld with but tig welding is the only way to fix it. Cut the bolt off the frame slider or go get a shorter one and put it back in
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