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I changed the oil in my 2003 ninja 500 earlier this year. But I fear that I put too heavy of a weight in. What would be the ideal weight to change with this time?
 

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I feel I did because the bike has a hard time turning over and starting when it's cold, but once it is warm it fires up like a champ. My friend said that happened with his, then he thinned the oil out, and it always started after that.
 

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I feel I did because the bike has a hard time turning over and starting when it's cold, but once it is warm it fires up like a champ. My friend said that happened with his, then he thinned the oil out, and it always started after that.
you can go with a lighter weight or a light viscosity but not both. It will help a little. However it's more than likely not caused directly by your oil. Battery, plugs, carburetor, vacuum lines , etc..... Going lighter in viscosity and weight u will hear noises in the bike that you don't hear with with heavier oils. Doesn't mean it's hurting the bike but u can hear more as the oil doesn't coat as good. I don't ever recommend anything less than 10w-30 for daily drivers. Road Race bike. Nothing below 5w-30. And strip racers can use damn near water. 0w-15.
 

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Depends on temps ur running in?
10-40 is a good weight for most temps....
Hot deserts....20-50.....
Temps around freezing.....3-30.
Always run synthetic oils made for motorbikes...

Agree, moderate temps stick to 10-40.

I favour Motul 5100 4T 10W40 and if I can't get Motul then Ipone 10.4 10W40 - synthesis. These are premium semi synthetic oils developed for motorcycles that work well with the bikes' wet clutch. Friction modifiers in other oils can cause issues with the bike clutch slipping...
 

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I run shell rotella t6 5w40 synthetic oil. Been using it in all my sport bikes for 30 years. Can't beat the price nor the quality of the oil. My engines and tranny all run best using rotella.
 

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Isn't it true if you change your oil very so often (3,000) using factory rec oil will work.
 

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Isn't it true if you change your oil very so often (3,000) using factory rec oil will work.
Probly......don't see why not....., but.....
Ifffnnnn u want ur stuff to last u use better then what they recommend...:thumb:

I prefer a full synthetic.......:dance:
N my manual says every 7500 miles, but.......
I change it every 5000 with filter.......:thumb:...NNnnnn......
I don't run my bike very hard at all......old u know.....:whistling:
Right now i have 3000 miles on my oil n it is still very clear looking in the site glass......Just starting to get a little darker.....:thumb:
So in the next 2000 miles it will be ready...n...i'll know it is still actually good oil.......:dance:
I'd like to see 100,000 miles from this bike.......:thumb:
I've always got 250,000 to 300,000 from my cars n trucks....:thumb:
Of course most have been toyotas......:dance:
The Hyundai SantaSuck i have now wont ever see 200,000....cause they are total junk.....:facepalm:
Back to Yota 4 me after this......
NNnnnnn.... I've always liked a Kawi......:thumb:








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Okay I've said it before. I used to be an Amsoil dealer. Oils aren't the same at all. The best oil for a car may be the worst for a bike. One thing I liked about Amsoil is they didn't say that every oil they produced was the best in its class. In a 10w-40 they far exceed all the other oils but in a 10w-30 they are a mid class oil. That being said know that name brand oils quality change per weight and viscosity. One of the most consistently high quality oils out there was actually yamalube oil. To speak of rec versus synthetic. Nearly all won't notice a performance difference if not racing or on a track where times are monitored because they don't ride the motor at high rpms under a load but the motor longevity is slightly increased using synthetic over conventional. Depending on the time of year and condition of the motor should also determine what oil you run. In colder temps you will want to run a lighter weight and viscosity. This also applies if your going for performance edges. However in the summer you want to go with heavier weight and viscosity. The reason you do this is because the oil in the cold is thicker and on start up is harder to get into all of the motor until it warms ups. The oil needs to get to all of the lube areas and not only get to them but stay on them. Does no good to have any oil that. Can't get to the motor when you start up. So why does the condition of the motor come into play ? Because if you run a oil to light in weight and viscosity you have oil not staying on the moving parts as long and you can hear it. On a motor that has mm's of slack in the lifters you hear the ticking of the slack more Heavier oil will fill the slack thus resulting in less ticking sounds. Now all that being said keep in mind a wet clutch requires special additives in the oil. That is where Amsoil is different than the rest. Amsoil does not add a synthetic additive to the oil but zinc is blended in the oil during the production process. Not all oil is made for wet clutches and not all motorcycle oils are specifically made for wet clutches. That's why sticking to a oil from the manufacturer is recommended. Hope this is a lil more information about oil than what you knew and will help you to know what your looking for or at least things to pay attention to!!
 

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^ Now that's a good bit 'oil' data for us less educated. I sure learned a little bit, thanks!
 

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How much is it? I've never tried it.
 

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@Byte2022: how does one figure out a high quality oil by reading the container? Maybe that info will not only help me but many others trying to figure out quality oils for our motos.
 

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U need to run it n test it urself......
I've run Amsoil n loved how it performed......, but $$$....
Also like Valvoline oils, and Mobile 1....in my cars, bikes, atvs.
U need to get the wet clutch specific ones
Used only Rotella oils in my diesels....
I used Havoline oil many years ago n liked that, but couldn't find it after a while.
I'd just use a top brand oil, synthetic if possible.....n.....what's specific 4 ur application.


OOOoooo I can never find Amsoil for motorcycles for less then 11 bucks a quart.....
That's a bit steep 4 me......








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U need to run it n test it urself...... I've run Amsoil n loved how it performed......, but $$$.... Also like Valvoline oils, and Mobile 1....in my cars, bikes, atvs. U need to get the wet clutch specific ones Used only Rotella oils in my diesels.... I used Havoline oil many years ago n liked that, but couldn't find it after a while. I'd just use a top brand oil, synthetic if possible.....n.....what's specific 4 ur application. OOOoooo I can never find Amsoil for motorcycles for less then 11 bucks a quart..... That's a bit steep 4 me......
amsoil is specifically made with zinc so it works for everything actually. Mobil 1 makes a pretty good synthetic with clutch additives already added as well. Yes Amsoil is high. As well as the yamalube both exceed the Kawasaki oil and the repsol oil by far. The way to find a quality oil is done before you get to the store. I understand sometimes they may not have what your looking for but you can usually order it cheaply. And dealer cost for most Amsoil dealers is about 11.00 usd. So the price is high but worth the protection for me. I however use the gold bottle yamalube and get it from my dealer for about 7.80 usd a qt Still not cheap but not 13.00 or higher. You can look on Amsoil website for oil comparisons in different weights. They tell you who is the best in that particular class. Sometimes it's
Them and sometimes it's
Not.
 

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have been using the Kawasaki fully synthetic oil in the black plastic bottles
adding 10% volume of STP oil additive... works well, smooth clutch, less engine clicking
... and longer lifetime, in the equatorial heat here
 
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