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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes.. folks, title says it all. I will be honest here-

I did a few poppa wheelies, maybe three or four back to back earlier today. It is the second time I have gotten the bike up to 8k, slipped the clutch, and popped her up. For fun, really.

Soooo...

on the three block ride home after the last one, I realize as I downshift to first my bike pops into neutral instead of first. It happens from time to time, I understand this, and I didn't think anything of it, so I engage and disengage the clutch a little and I am able to get the clunk into first without much effort. Maybe a few seconds later I am revving high and realize I am popped back into neutral, which I quickly correct and continue on. I get to the second stop sign, downshift into first, and again it goes into neutral and this time is tough to get out of. Continues on all the way home.. so I investigate.

Bike is fine in all other gears, up and downshifting, the only problem arises when I downshift while moving from second to first, it instead sticks in neutral, and is rather tough to get out of.

I had noticed lately my chain was extremely loose, so I went ahead and tightened it up to respectable 1" slack. It was just cleaned and lubed maybe three weeks ago.

It still is doing this.. probably 80% of the time downshifted into first from second. I also put her up on a rear stand and tried a few things, which I noticed something interesting. Whilst on the rear stand and idleing in first gear, it will only stay in first gear for about two-five seconds before going into some sort of false neutral (no neutral light gos on)

it does this 100% of the time.

I am assuming I must have broke something here.. but there is always a possibility that it is an easy fix or a coincidence, so I figured I would ask here since I have been to so many threads and am clear out of ideas.

I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

-Broken from Connecticut :-\
 

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"I would appreciate any feedback."

Any feedback? Don't pop wheelies! ::)
 

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Here Is a list of things that can possibly be wrong, none of which are easy fixes. Because the 250 Ninja is a low torque beast. The transmission was not designed to handle high rpm clutch popping and high torque. Even though many "people pop wheelies all the time", it is almost inevitable that they will have some tranny damage. If you are going to stunt the Ninja, Try changing the rear sprocket to something bigger to lessen the shock load to the tranny and cush drive.

Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return:

Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent or seized
Gear stuck on the shaft
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Pawl spring broken
Shift mechanism arm broken
Shift pawl broken

Jumps out of gear:
Shift fork ear worn
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn
Shift drum groove worn
Neutral positioning pin spring weak or broken
Shift fork guide pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn

Overshifts:
Neutral positioning lever spring weak or broken

Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Clutch noise:
Weak or damaged damper
Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Clutch housing gear worn
Transmission noise:
Bearings worn
Transmission gears worn or chipped
Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
Engine oil insufficient
Pawl spring broken
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Blue Ghost said:
Here Is a list of things that can possibly be wrong, none of which are easy fixes. Because the 250 Ninja is a low torque beast. The transmission was not designed to handle high rpm clutch popping and high torque. Even though many "people pop wheelies all the time", it is almost inevitable that they will have some tranny damage. If you are going to stunt the Ninja, Try changing the rear sprocket to something bigger to lessen the shock load to the tranny and cush drive.

Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return:

Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent or seized
Gear stuck on the shaft
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Pawl spring broken
Shift mechanism arm broken
Shift pawl broken

Jumps out of gear:
Shift fork ear worn
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn
Shift drum groove worn
Neutral positioning pin spring weak or broken
Shift fork guide pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn

Overshifts:
Neutral positioning lever spring weak or broken

Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Clutch noise:
Weak or damaged damper
Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Clutch housing gear worn
Transmission noise:
Bearings worn
Transmission gears worn or chipped
Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
Engine oil insufficient
Pawl spring broken
well, I appreciate the diagnosis list. Trust me, I am not one to do it all the time and I can admit it is a pretty risky thing to do on such an underpowered bike. I am completely done with them once i can fix this problem. I have changed my oil with respol 4t full syntehtic and also adjusted my clutch a bit. It is better but still not fixed. There is def. something off in my gearbox or shifting mechanism. When I try and downshift into first from second or down from neutral, it basically grinds and makes the sound of like an automatic bb gun. "B-r-r-r-r-r-r-r-rat"!

I feel bad for my baby. I brokeded her. Oh well. She will get shiny new parts once I can bring it to my 'guy' to check out and fix (if worth fixing)

Any other ideas of things I can try in the meantime?

I have:

Adjusted chain to a respectable 1" slack

Changed oil and oil filter/Respol full synthetic 10-40 and K&N 401

Adjusted my clutch to no end, putting it to factory standards

Like I said.. now it does it more like 60% of the time instead of 80%, which is better, but still is annoying as all hell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATE!


After taking off my fairings for the oil and filter change I did today, I decided to check the cable adjuster itself.. it was about three turns loose. Almost looks as if it shot off the thread of the cable from the load of the clutch being dumped 3x times.

Readjusted it. Lubed my clutch wire. Vwoilla, good as new! Ahhhh, what a relief. Thank you to those who offered *constructive* advice ( :p ) but looks like I won't be paying anyone to replace half of my tranny for this one! :)

In the prcoess of getting off my lazy bum off this recliner (200$ recliner off craigslist for 25$ from a Yale student heading back to Western Asia.. score) and get my fairings back on. I am trying to think of any other maintenance I could do before putting all the fairings back on. And I mean I have ALL of them off, upper, lower, front, cowl, everything. Any ideas? QUICKLY!


HURRY!


GOD YOU PEOPLE ARE SOOOO SLOW!




.... i liek tuddles...
 

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Blackout said:
..Readjusted it. Lubed my clutch wire. Vwoilla, good as new!
So it sounds like the clutch was not disengaging fully? Glad it was able to be fixed, maybe not as good as new, but fixed. Did you notice any metal in the oil when you changed it ?

Depending on how detailed your are, there are a few more things you can do while you have the fairings off, If you have not already done it.

1. Check all the bolt torques
2. Clean and detail the engine, radiator, frame and fairings
3. Change or check the spark plugs
4. Check all electrical connectors and battery for corrosion
5. Upgrade your headlights, taillights, flasher relay
6. and if your really bored and have absolutely have nothing else to do you can take the engine apart and learn how to put it back together ;D jus kiddin'
 

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check/adjust the valves.

Remove, clean and lubricate the cam-chain tensioner.

Check/clean, re-oil air filter

Check coolant

glad you got it figured out....
 
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