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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, last Friday i bought a brand new 2012 Ninja 250. I passed my MSA course and have been driving happily for the past few days. I'm on the "break-in" stage right now, but it's literally impossible to keep the RPM under 4,000. So right now i just ride it easy. I dont rev super high and don't push my limits, often. :p I've pushed it a few times just to test it, but nothing major. Top speed i've gone is 100km/h and it was just for a short burst. Anyway, I'm really trying to make this bike last as long as possible. Will my keeping the revs in a 4-6k range affect my break in significantly?

Also, riding long distances. After i put on say 2,000 kilometers will riding a for say 2-3 hours at a constant high speed of 100-120 be bad for my motor? (again i'm canadian so my speed is in kilometers.) I don't want to damage my machine, and i'm new to any type of vehicle (this bike is my first vehicle).

Right now i'm just trying to put on 1k on my odometer for the first service check, I feel like once i achieve that i can ride a bit more aggressively. I consider myself a safe driver, but i'd like to push my bike a bit more. I know it can, it's just i dont wanna damage it.

Any tips or advice?
 

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There is so many different opinions on how to break in a bike, and while I have broken in two bikes, I did not pay any attention into how many revs I was putting on, I just rode it as I would normally, and as long as I was not over doing things, everything so far has gone well.
Don't take my word for it, do some research and make up your own mind.
Good luck with it
 

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As far as break-in goes, mid-range revs are fine but the most important part is getting some cylinder pressure to seat the rings. Just tip-toeing around doesn't do it. Revving high doesn't do it. What gets you good cylinder pressure is moderately hard acceleration in lower gears. That means shifting around 2000 and accelerating hard to 6000 or whatever. No need to rev high. This must be done fairly early in order to get the rings properly seated. After 1000km it's over either way. By 2000km you can drone on the hwy no problem.

I'm sure you'll get an oil change at 1000 km. I'd go until the next service before running synthetic oil. You can use a mid-range synthetic like Mobil1 10W-40 4T (never use regular auto oils) or even a high-end oil like Motul, but a good inexpensive choice is Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. I've used in in lots of cycles over the years and feel it's a good choice. Always change the oil immediately before storing for the winter and fill the tank to the top with gas + stabilizer. Draining the float bowls for storage is also a real good idea. Keeping the gas tank full most of the time also helps keep condensation away. Condensation causes rust. Use Ethanol-free gas (even if it has to be Premium) if you can. 87 octane w/o Ethanol is the best and will give you more power and economy than Premium.

Learn how to do your maintenance - chain adjustments and oil changes are simple and common maintenance items that you need to be able to do. You can't run to the dealer every time you need the chain adjusted. Lube the chain often. You need to be able to read the oil level regularly. Check tire pressures at least once a week - that's extremely important for your safety.


Jay
 

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Congratulations Ninjeff. It certainly sounds like you have your head on straight as concerns allowing yourself to mature as a rider.
If you dont mind me asking, how are you fixed for gear?
 

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Congrats on the new bike Ninjeff. My 250r is also my first brand new bike (but not my first bike). I was reading threads on here and watching YouTube vids on breaking in a bike motor and your right the RPM range they tell ya in the manual is weird. In top gear at 4000 rpm is like dangerously slow on a highway. I found that riding it like you normally would with flow of traffic will be fine. I would refrain from getting the bike into the 8000- redline range until the break in period is over. Try not to overrev the engine while in neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies. They really help. I do plan on learning to do my own small maintenance, i'm not a great handy man but i can learn. ^_^ Ironically i have been doing that, accelerating hard then slowing it down to lower RPM's. I've seen videos on chain lubing and oil changes, but i've never checked tire pressure, i'll do that. I only fill up with premium gas, no middle grade or low end. The price is low already, might as well put in the good stuff.

As for my gear, i'm currently using a shoei 1100 Hadron-2 with a dark smoke visor. I have good gloves with knuckle/palm protection. Right now i'm using a leather jacket, but soon upgrading to a proper motorcycle jacket. And i'm using jeans right now for pants, since i don't have the full funds to get motorcycle pants right now. And lastly boots, are thick(er) winter(ish) boots, that go up past my ankles. In June i'll be getting the rest of my remaining gear. Jacket, pants, boots.

My last question is, while going on a long ride. Say 5+ hours, will i have to take a break during that because the speed I'm going at is hard on the engine? Like will it overheat? Ruin it faster? That's what i'm scared i'll do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
LOL! I do plan on trying to find an aftermarket seat, any recommendations if they have them? I've been noticing off an hour long ride my backside gets irritated, but i just move up and hug the tank some more and it goes away. God i love riding my red machine <3
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks, I'll check it out more in depth. I cant wait till i'm able to ride it for longer distances. I'd like to make my bike look a bit better... just for persona preference, i love the look, and i love they way peoples heads turn when they see me ride by. ^_^

Oh how i wish i had lots of money!
 

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I only fill up with premium gas, no middle grade or low end. The price is low already, might as well put in the good stuff.
You were right on target up to that point...

Seriously, don't use Premium because you think it's better for your engine - there's no significant difference unless you need the extra octane to keep detonation at bay (you don't). If you think it's "cleaner" and "better" you are falling for marketing BS. Once a year, at the beginning of the season, add 1 oz per gal of Techron Concentrate or Seafoam to a tank.

The absolute best performance and economy will be had with 87 w/o Ethanol.

Use Premium only if it's the only grade without Ethanol.


Jay
 
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