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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey there guys.

Just bought a 2nd hand 2014 white ninja 300 at 6800km. Currently at 9100km as at today, 4-June-2014. The bike has s20 tires and I'm the 3rd owner. It also has a small crack on the right fairing. 2nd owner said it fell while at neutral. So as I'm a new rider, I would like to learn new topics on bikes.

I haven't done any maintenance since I bought it.

I've heard you should chance the oil every 5000km, is that right? What do you guys suggest?

What about for the petrol? I Heard there are different types of petrol. Currently using vPower nitro+ from shell. Should I go for the cheapest instead?

What're other things I should look for?

I would love to learn every kind of topics you throw in.

Thanks Guys!!!
 

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Hey. Welcome to the page and to riding. I don't know exactly what gas that bike requires but it should be in the sticker on the tank. Usually the bikes not super sport don't require the highest octane but instead the mid grade. Try it and see
If you can tell a difference in the way the bike runs. May run the same. However oil should be changed depending on riding style and type of oil used. If you done ride hard all the time you will get more life out of your oil. If you use cheap oil versus quality oil it won't last as long either. Not sure in km but at least every 5000 miles at its longest using good oil. 3000 miles on cheap oil. Be sure you change the oil filter too and also if you notice the motor sounds different after a few thousand miles then Change the oil
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Awesome! Thanks a lot for the info! Didn't know about the oil filter and octane.

I do a research on the octane thing. Btw is it ok if I go to different fuel brand stations and get fueled up or should I stick to just one brand?

What're some good brands of oil?

On the other hand, I would like to know more about leaning. I want to Practice my riding skills a lot more.

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Hey bud. So each has an opinion on oil but I'll tell you this. I'm a amsoil dealer which is great but the best oil I've used is yamalube. Synthetic Yamaha oil. It's not cheap but it is great oil. You can go cheaper and still get good oil. I have used the royal purple oil as well. The catch is this make sure you buy motorcycle oil that is for wet clutch operation.
As far as gas stations, this is also a preference but I personally buy from multiple stations with different a brands. The only difference I find is between ethanol and non ethanol brands.
As to the leaning. I will tell you. Body position is super super important but with that is throttle control Twist of the wrist is a good video to watch but is not perfect. You can find it on YouTube It will get you started in the right direction
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow. That's some great info right there! I didn't know about the synthetic oil stuff.

Just checked out the "twist of the wrist" video and Damn it's a long video. Will watch it soon.

Another question popped on my head is that for ninja 300, do I have to warm up the engine before I at art riding or its not required as its fuel injected?

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Yes all motorcycles four wheelers JetSki's anything that has a motor should warm up before you take it out. Each engine has a normal operating temperature inside it. And as far as that goes my bike does not run as good under 165°F but I can ride it at 140°F it just does not operate the same at such a low temperature. There are many reasons why a bike must be at that normal operating temperature such as oil viscosity is achieved at a certain temperature for that application ignition timing lubrication on all services top and bottom of the motor brings engine longevity ignition block pressure etc. I understand we live in a real-world situation but you should try to check your air pressure in your tires before you ride check your oil check your Jolyn and your brake fluid and the engine should definitely be warmed up before you ride
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ahh. I see. How hot do you think ninja 300 needs to Be? Is there any way to tell the temperature as it doesn't shows on the meter unlike the r6.

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With no temp gauge from a cold start meaning the bike hasn't been started in hours. I'd say crank it let the choke turn itself off hen maybe let it idle for a 2 minutes or less and you should be good to go. If you have been riding it. Let it idle for about 30/45 seconds. Hopefully this helps
 

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No worries. So with a fuel
Injected engine the first time you crank it you will notice the choke comes on basically (but
It's not really a choke). The bike will
Idle high for a bit then the idle will
Change lower rpm. This doesn't necessarily mean the bike is ready to go but will be a lot better than at cold. I allow my bike to do this everytime no matter what. Even after a ride where the engine is hot if you turn it off and let it sit a minute or so, you will notice the "choke" comes on again at startup but only for a couple seconds unlike it does at a cold start. This is necessary to let oil reach the top of the motor. Hope this explains it more
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Awesome cool! I understand now. Now I start the bike and leave it for around ~2 mins.

On the other hand, I noticed this behind the front tire. Is this normal? At the time of buying the bike, My mechanic said it's a small leak but not too important which still needs to be be fixed no matter what.

The chain is getting rusted. What're the ways to keep it smooth? Grease or what?

And lastly, how could I clean this sort off? Should I be using a special product for cleaning purposes?
 

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The chain you will Need to spend a lot of time on but once you clean it You will need to buy chain lube and keep it on the chain to prevent rust as well as keep the o rings in good shape.

The fairings can be cleaned with turtle wax bug and tar remover. They have other things to buy this stuff I use on everything rims, sprockets, paint, and fairings.

The oil looks like it's coming from the upper gasket on the top end of the motor. Pretty
Important too fix it. You don't want oil on your tires causing a wreck
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Alright, understood! I'll take the bike to my mechanic really soon so I'm goning to ride less to avoid any other troubles.

On the other hand, I couldn't really find any helpful videos on YouTube regarding knee drag. Do you or anyone here has a guide or video tutorial?
 
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