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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I picked up a 2011 650r with 2500 miles. The bike is COMPLETELY stock. Was wondering how I could find an aftermarket seat because it gets a little sore after about a hour to the point where I have to pull over or ride standing up so my ass can regain blood flow again. Also it has the factory exhaust and kinda has the whole scooter thing going on in lower rpms so I wanna look into a slip on exhaust maybe? If possible I'd like them to be "reasonably" priced. Not necessarily the best thing out there.
 

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So I picked up a 2011 650r with 2500 miles. The bike is COMPLETELY stock. Was wondering how I could find an aftermarket seat because it gets a little sore after about a hour to the point where I have to pull over or ride standing up so my ass can regain blood flow again. Also it has the factory exhaust and kinda has the whole scooter thing going on in lower rpms so I wanna look into a slip on exhaust maybe? If possible I'd like them to be "reasonably" priced. Not necessarily the best thing out there.
Well the seat......U will most likely have to have it gelled by someone who does that sort of thing. I have a 2012 n had to go that route.

Exhaust....think ur gunna have to go a full system. Think the 2011 n 2012 have the same dumbass exhaust. No slipons......:facepalm:

Maybe someone else will chime in soon n give more info.

U can Google n find what u need.....:thumb:








 

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Saddle man makes gel seats pricey but it's a entire seat not just a cover. Exhaust are like earl said one piece systems. Look at all the pipes for the one you like best. I'm partial to two brothers. They make custom exhaust too. Check out their website.
 

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Saddle man makes gel seats pricey but it's a entire seat not just a cover. Exhaust are like earl said one piece systems. Look at all the pipes for the one you like best. I'm partial to two brothers. They make custom exhaust too. Check out their website.
Saddleman has nutta for the 650......:facepalm:








 

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Like Byte said, a two brothers exhaust would fit your needs/wants pretty well. I had one on my old 650r. They give a good sound and they are decently priced. If you want higher end exhaust system, go with a Yoshimura or Akrapovic if they even make it for your bike.
 

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NNnnnnn when he changes that won't he haveta go to a powa cammanda 5 n get it dynoed or......buy the autotune too...?
Nnnnnnnnnn...u know what i mean......:facepalm:

Datsa what i runnededed into when i was reaserching doin it to mine......:whistling:

But it's just $$$$$$......ifffnnnnn u got it to spend.....:dance:
May as well do some airbox mods too while ur at it.....:popcorn:








 

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NNnnnnn when he changes that won't he haveta go to a powa cammanda 5 n get it dynoed or......buy the autotune too...? Nnnnnnnnnn...u know what i mean......:facepalm: Datsa what i runnededed into when i was reaserching doin it to mine......:whistling: But it's just $$$$$$......ifffnnnnn u got it to spend.....:dance: May as well do some airbox mods too while ur at it.....:popcorn:
no he doesn't have to put on a power commander if he doesn't change the air filter or air box. The ecu can compensate up to 7% on nearly all bikes. Change more than that and yes he will need something to compensate and the auto tune is not necessarily an answer as has been stated many many times before. Auto tune is to be used to keep the dyno'd map compensated for temps changes. That's all it is really for but they advertise as much more so they will sell. Sad part is most dyno shops don't even use the autotune correctly You pay to get the bike dyno'd They add the autotune and it actually slows you back down. Best bet is power commander and a dyno. Or the juice box. They sell kits filter exhaust and juice box on their website
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I always heard power commanders are a rip off. That they offer you free dyno maps online that ****s you up more than it helps. But what do I know? I've only been riding sport bikes since some idiot made me wreck my intruder.
 

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I really have no idea......:facepalm:
Just hear what they say here on these forums......:dance:
I'm not planning to change out my exhaust anytime soon, so......
Not gunna need one......:nonono:
When the time comes tho i'll be sure to ask n do some homework to pick what's works best for what i'm driving at the time.....:thumb:

I do hear a lot say a juice box is the thing.......:rolleyes:
I have Orange juice.....maybe i'll duct tape the box to my bike someplace n try it....:thumb:








 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Haha yea I was reading about those too. Seemed along the same line as a power commander. It really don't matter. Its in perfect condition aside from missing two fairing bolts. So it definitely turns heads without sounding like a pissed off bumble bee. I've heard people say they've never seen a stock burnt orange paint job but it sure is pretty

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Automotive lighting Plant
 

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And I'm sure you duct taping oj to your bike won't look near as silly as me duct taping my s3 to the gas tank on my old gixxer to enjoy the benefits of gps navigation haha
LOL......I really haven't went to duct tape as of yet, but do have some epoxy n cloth holding fairings together......:whistling:








 

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I always heard power commanders are a rip off. That they offer you free dyno maps online that ****s you up more than it helps. But what do I know? I've only been riding sport bikes since some idiot made me wreck my intruder.
people who say they're a rip off are the people who never got their bike dyno'd. Let me make a simple point. Bikes come from the factory with a specific air fuel ratio plus or minus slight variances based on temperature humidity etc. Certain parts or specifically modified parts can change the air flow in and out of the motor thus changing the air fuel ratio. When this is changed the bike does not run optimal, smooth, efficiently, or at peak performance. The only way to fix the air fuel ratio to achieve the thing mentioned above is to add more or less fuel in certain parts of the fuel curve. This is done by adding a fuel controller. Whether it be a power commander juice box bazazz API EF1 or what other brand you find. You can plug them in but without a dyno of your specific bike you still are not allowing the bike to be optimal and in fact. My zx10 may not run as effectively as yours therefore my map may be way different that yours. Some people flash their ecu to keep from adding a fuel module. This is honestly the best way but not offered on many bikes and is pricey as it must be done every time you make a change. By flashing the ecu you can adjust the air fuel ratio and the timing curves as well still using the manufacturers sensors to allow for variance changes based upon temperature humidity etc. Now that being said a ecu flash can not be done with out a dyno run. So throughout everything I have said in many threads and post I hope people understand you can't just put them
In and expect miracles. This is why people say they are a rip off. I can tell you that a dyno is the only way to install the power commander properly. A change in my Map can result in changes in horsepower by as much as 30 hp which is insane. Keep that in mind when your our racing your friends how much 30 hp could help you brag about your buddies slow a^* bike. All while the bike being smoother more predictable and easier to ride. RRRRRRRIIiIiIiINNnNnNnNGGgG. That's the bell. Schools out!!!
 

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people who say they're a rip off are the people who never got their bike dyno'd. Let me make a simple point. Bikes come from the factory with a specific air fuel ratio plus or minus slight variances based on temperature humidity etc. Certain parts or specifically modified parts can change the air flow in and out of the motor thus changing the air fuel ratio. When this is changed the bike does not run optimal, smooth, efficiently, or at peak performance. The only way to fix the air fuel ratio to achieve the thing mentioned above is to add more or less fuel in certain parts of the fuel curve. This is done by adding a fuel controller. Whether it be a power commander juice box bazazz API EF1 or what other brand you find. You can plug them in but without a dyno of your specific bike you still are not allowing the bike to be optimal and in fact. My zx10 may not run as effectively as yours therefore my map may be way different that yours. Some people flash their ecu to keep from adding a fuel module. This is honestly the best way but not offered on many bikes and is pricey as it must be done every time you make a change. By flashing the ecu you can adjust the air fuel ratio and the timing curves as well still using the manufacturers sensors to allow for variance changes based upon temperature humidity etc. Now that being said a ecu flash can not be done with out a dyno run. So throughout everything I have said in many threads and post I hope people understand you can't just put them
In and expect miracles. This is why people say they are a rip off. I can tell you that a dyno is the only way to install the power commander properly. A change in my Map can result in changes in horsepower by as much as 30 hp which is insane. Keep that in mind when your our racing your friends how much 30 hp could help you brag about your buddies slow a^* bike. All while the bike being smoother more predictable and easier to ride. RRRRRRRIIiIiIiINNnNnNnNGGgG. That's the bell. Schools out!!!
4 the summa..................:whistling:








 

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people who say they're a rip off are the people who never got their bike dyno'd. Let me make a simple point. Bikes come from the factory with a specific air fuel ratio plus or minus slight variances based on temperature humidity etc. Certain parts or specifically modified parts can change the air flow in and out of the motor thus changing the air fuel ratio. When this is changed the bike does not run optimal, smooth, efficiently, or at peak performance. The only way to fix the air fuel ratio to achieve the thing mentioned above is to add more or less fuel in certain parts of the fuel curve. This is done by adding a fuel controller. Whether it be a power commander juice box bazazz API EF1 or what other brand you find. You can plug them in but without a dyno of your specific bike you still are not allowing the bike to be optimal and in fact. My zx10 may not run as effectively as yours therefore my map may be way different that yours. Some people flash their ecu to keep from adding a fuel module. This is honestly the best way but not offered on many bikes and is pricey as it must be done every time you make a change. By flashing the ecu you can adjust the air fuel ratio and the timing curves as well still using the manufacturers sensors to allow for variance changes based upon temperature humidity etc. Now that being said a ecu flash can not be done with out a dyno run. So throughout everything I have said in many threads and post I hope people understand you can't just put them In and expect miracles. This is why people say they are a rip off. I can tell you that a dyno is the only way to install the power commander properly. A change in my Map can result in changes in horsepower by as much as 30 hp which is insane. Keep that in mind when your our racing your friends how much 30 hp could help you brag about your buddies slow a^* bike. All while the bike being smoother more predictable and easier to ride. RRRRRRRIIiIiIiINNnNnNnNGGgG. That's the bell. Schools out!!!
Byte is right. Most people drop $300-$400 on a power programmer not even knowing what it does to the bike. When they plug it in, they have ridiculous expectations for power increases and think it is a ripoff. A power programmer isn't a modification that gives you extra power directly. The power programmer simply adjusts the ECU mapping, and fuel to air ration to allow the motorcycle to run most efficiently after modifications have been installed. All it does is allow your bike to run in a more healthy and efficient manner. That's where the power gains come into place. Not from the programmer directly. So if all you have is a basic slip-on exhaust and install a programmer, you probably won't notice any changes in regards to performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Good to know. As I said I'm a noob so I'm still learning. I was aware that the power commander isn't necessarily for power but all I'm saying is I've talked to guys that claim worse gas mileage after installation on the so called "gas saver" dyno map.
 

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Good to know. As I said I'm a noob so I'm still learning. I was aware that the power commander isn't necessarily for power but all I'm saying is I've talked to guys that claim worse gas mileage after installation on the so called "gas saver" dyno map.
okay so worse mileage is the question now right okay. Let's look at this. You put on an exhaust change the air filter and put in the power commander as most people do and stop there. You load the generic map and go out riding. You have more than likely less power. Probably some back fire or flame shooting out the exhaust. Slower track times the bike doesn't feel as if it's as snappy prolly has some bogging issues in the bottom end. More than likely bike has a smell of gas at idle coming out of the exhaust why is this??? Because the air fuel ratio is wrong at that rpm and throttle position. This is probably worse throughout the rest of the fuel curve. I can't show you the software on my apple because it only works with PC but if you download the free software and a generic map for your bike. You will see how the map is built. Per rpm per throttle position over 100 input sections for fuel changes. This look at idle rpms. 500-1200 rpms at throttle position 0 and see what changes were made. Keep in mind I am referring to a zero map meaning no changes from stock. Did the generic map add fuel at idle. Probably so. Do you really need a rich air fuel at idle? Maybe so depending on your application but probably not. At idle I actually run a little on the lean side of middle. Why burn more fuel at idle? ( red light, stop sign, etc) think that affects your gas mileage. People say buy the auto tune Auto tune is not the answer!!!! Auto tune assist the dyno'd map. Auto tune works as this. It also has the same type of input selections over 100 you put in a desired air fuel ratio ex 12.1, 13.2 etc. 12.1 may be perfect at one rpm and throttle position but not at another. This is why a dyno is so important to find the most power at each rpm and each throttle position. So if someone inputs 13.2 across the board is again hurting them selves by taking away from the best and most optimal air fuel ratio for your bike at each setting. If you want to know maps. I probably know as much as the best in the business. I've personally dyno'd over a 1000 bikes not to mention one of my best friends races one of the most advanced race bikes in the world which I've watched and had input on dyno. The best most effiecient way is dyno each cyclinder but requires header bungs and most people cant afford that type of dyno but you all can see the options for this in the power commander software by being able to assign each cylinder it's own map and fuel trim but don't try to add one yourself or to separate your cylinders unless you know exactly what your doing. Again most dyno shops don't even know how to operate at this level of fuel adjustment. Hope this gives you more knowledge. Second period is over
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Besides i have no interest on racing lambos and as far as the gas I get about 150 miles to a fill up. Not to mention its got enough low end torque to push me back when I drop the hammer. So i can't complain. Also with my insurance running 95 dollars a year gives me plenty of room to add superficial mods.
 
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