my racer
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If you live on the east coast the East Coast Timing Association or www.ecta-lsr.com . That is the track at Maxton North Carolina.
the basic list to take a stock bike down are
tethered kill switch
metal chain guard
metal valve stem caps
zip together or one piece leather
normal safty gear
there is more to do the faster you go
after 125 you need to make license runs
If you are on the west coast that is Bonneville and the great Salt flats. Covered by the Southern California Timing Assocaition. or SCTA.
You can do what ever you want . The first thing is safty but engine wise anything you want to build has a class and you can see how fast it realy is with no B.S.
the basic list to take a stock bike down are
tethered kill switch
metal chain guard
metal valve stem caps
zip together or one piece leather
normal safty gear
there is more to do the faster you go
after 125 you need to make license runs
If you are on the west coast that is Bonneville and the great Salt flats. Covered by the Southern California Timing Assocaition. or SCTA.
You can do what ever you want . The first thing is safty but engine wise anything you want to build has a class and you can see how fast it realy is with no B.S.
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1,795 Posts
So far I have put on a Yoshi full exhaust k&N pods and a lot of jetting work.
I changed the final gearing to 15/41. That is 120 mph at red line and it feels fine on the street. On the track Saturday it felt too tall. I made six passes.
My best pass was 103.224 mph in fifth gear. every time I hit sixth gear I got 97 mph .
15/41 is to much fo the 30 hp engine.
On Sunday I put 60 psi in the tires to lessin the drag .I changed the rear sprocket to a 43 tooth and left the front 15 tooth .
These bikes hit a revlimiter at 13,500 rpm . speed shifting at 12,000 rpm I maniged to get into a fairly good tuck .(I am big on this bike )
I got my toes in and remembered to pull in my elbows. I slid my left hand over the blinkers and kept my head down.
looking at the tack and the white line down the track. With a strong side wind and the hard tires the bike would jump in the air when it hit the bumps. I could feel the engine rev when the rear tire lifted off the ground. I got 5 good runs before they made us stop because of side wind.the best run was 104.720 mph in sixth gear. I was at 13,000 rpm just under the revlimiter and still pulling when I hit the trap at 104 mph
I need 106.8 to brake the landspeed record for my class. 2.1 mph may not seem like a lot but I will have to find that and more for june.
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I changed the final gearing to 15/41. That is 120 mph at red line and it feels fine on the street. On the track Saturday it felt too tall. I made six passes.
My best pass was 103.224 mph in fifth gear. every time I hit sixth gear I got 97 mph .
15/41 is to much fo the 30 hp engine.
On Sunday I put 60 psi in the tires to lessin the drag .I changed the rear sprocket to a 43 tooth and left the front 15 tooth .
These bikes hit a revlimiter at 13,500 rpm . speed shifting at 12,000 rpm I maniged to get into a fairly good tuck .(I am big on this bike )
I got my toes in and remembered to pull in my elbows. I slid my left hand over the blinkers and kept my head down.
looking at the tack and the white line down the track. With a strong side wind and the hard tires the bike would jump in the air when it hit the bumps. I could feel the engine rev when the rear tire lifted off the ground. I got 5 good runs before they made us stop because of side wind.the best run was 104.720 mph in sixth gear. I was at 13,000 rpm just under the revlimiter and still pulling when I hit the trap at 104 mph
I need 106.8 to brake the landspeed record for my class. 2.1 mph may not seem like a lot but I will have to find that and more for june.
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Very nice! You're getting close. The record can easily be broken if you wanted to put a bit of money into building another engine, either really high compression/redline or a low compression turbo setup. The good thing about the small motor is a build up would cost less than a 4 cylinder would. I am looking to find a cheap wrecked bike for an engine to take apart, I would like to see the quality of the parts before trying to make lots of power on a stock engine.
Starting with changing your jetting was a smart idea, lots of power can be made with the right fuel mixture. Have you dynod the bike?
Starting with changing your jetting was a smart idea, lots of power can be made with the right fuel mixture. Have you dynod the bike?
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Thats kinda my long term goal with my bike. I want to get as much power and as much umpff as I can out of these little things. These bikes are so new, '08 that is, that I want to wait a year and see what other people come up with. I kinda look at it like a 4 banger honda civic hatch back. Stock those things are little tirds, but do some modding and you can double or tripple the power. I wanna do that with this bike.
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I need a salvage title bike. I will spend all my money on motorcycle racing . The rest goes to waist.
On this bike I will work on small mods nothing radical.
I still want to ride it on the street.
When I get my next one the sky is the limit.
I am going to try nitrous first to develop the engine. If it can take 35 to 40 hp total .I will develop a turbo.
If it blows up. It may not last with boost. I will spend real money .
Billet crank ,custome case ,custome ground cams what evere it takes.
My long term goal is 125 mph at Bonneville.
I am allowed to use any 250cc 4-stroke Kawasaki makes. So I will work with the stock engine for a while but I can use a dirt bike engine as well.
I will start looking for a new dyno today. My guy sold his about six months ago.
On this bike I will work on small mods nothing radical.
I still want to ride it on the street.
When I get my next one the sky is the limit.
I am going to try nitrous first to develop the engine. If it can take 35 to 40 hp total .I will develop a turbo.
If it blows up. It may not last with boost. I will spend real money .
Billet crank ,custome case ,custome ground cams what evere it takes.
My long term goal is 125 mph at Bonneville.
I am allowed to use any 250cc 4-stroke Kawasaki makes. So I will work with the stock engine for a while but I can use a dirt bike engine as well.
I will start looking for a new dyno today. My guy sold his about six months ago.
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More offerings to the god of speed
I got the race front body piece .No headlight or merror bumps. I also lowered the rear of the bike to get me behind the fairing more. I need the bubble windshield but they are backordered.
Lowering the back also gives more steering rake witch is good for high speed stability.
I installed the Woodcraft rear sets. They will get my feet back up and in and I hope that will make me more aerodynamic. I need to slide back in my seat to get the lump that is my back down out of the wind. I slid forward to crunch up as much as possible but .The photo shows sliding back will help. I only need 2.1 mile per hour to brake the record.
I don't have time or money to do the engine yet so I am consentrating on cleen running. Riding in a streight line is harder than it seems . This is a photo shot at the May run. I think I can get a lot from smoothing out my fourm
][/img]
I got the race front body piece .No headlight or merror bumps. I also lowered the rear of the bike to get me behind the fairing more. I need the bubble windshield but they are backordered.
Lowering the back also gives more steering rake witch is good for high speed stability.
I installed the Woodcraft rear sets. They will get my feet back up and in and I hope that will make me more aerodynamic. I need to slide back in my seat to get the lump that is my back down out of the wind. I slid forward to crunch up as much as possible but .The photo shows sliding back will help. I only need 2.1 mile per hour to brake the record.
I don't have time or money to do the engine yet so I am consentrating on cleen running. Riding in a streight line is harder than it seems . This is a photo shot at the May run. I think I can get a lot from smoothing out my fourm
][/img]
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I think that photo was taken at the finish line because I am just starting to sit up. I have a check list of things to do. first is my toes on the pegs. the Woodcraft rearsets are small . If my toes are on the pegs then they can't be sticking out.
The next thing is my butt againced the bumper pad. moving the pegs back and lowering the rear of the bike will help that.
The next thing is to put my chest on the tank and helmet on the tank. the problem is the further down the track I can see the easyer it is to go streight. as I look closer to the ground in fromt of me I tend to drift around.
I have to get through 5 cleen shifts then the tuck all in 50 seconds . It is deffinitly fun.
The next thing is my butt againced the bumper pad. moving the pegs back and lowering the rear of the bike will help that.
The next thing is to put my chest on the tank and helmet on the tank. the problem is the further down the track I can see the easyer it is to go streight. as I look closer to the ground in fromt of me I tend to drift around.
I have to get through 5 cleen shifts then the tuck all in 50 seconds . It is deffinitly fun.
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44 Posts
Hey Darkhorse do you get as much fun as I did telling people that you have a pair of pistons at 14000 rpm less than a foot away from your chest? 
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Mine redlines at 14500
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