Hey peeps I'm the new guy around here as some of you might know, and trying to find out everything about the ninja before go out and hopeful get my new bike. However, when that day come what is the best way to break in a new ninja 250. I was going to break it in how they say in the service manual. However I was looking on some website that said to run it hard to break it in. I know this is one of those myths that will be debated a lot but I just don't think that running it hard is going to be good. Can some one please shed some light on how properly break in the ninja 250.
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727 Posts
The best way to break in the bike, is to follow Kawasaki's instructions. If there's a problem durring break-in, it's their problem. An occational blast on the freeway is fine, but sustained running above the 4000 recomendation makes you the test pilot.
My advice.. buy used. And buy the bike with every accessory that you could possibly want. Save bucks!
My advice.. buy used. And buy the bike with every accessory that you could possibly want. Save bucks!
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4,253 Posts
Well I must admit that I have broken in two bikes now, and I didn't pay a lot of attention to the recommended break-in procedure.
I rode it normally as I would if the bike was 2 years old and never had any problems.
Now, please don't take what I say as gospel cause I have been lucky, just ask Felix!!
I rode it normally as I would if the bike was 2 years old and never had any problems.
Now, please don't take what I say as gospel cause I have been lucky, just ask Felix!!
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1,438 Posts
I've broken in 2 bikes, and done pretty much the same as Zandit. I ride the bike like I'm gonna ride it when its broken in - for the most part. I do avoid the upper 3rd of the RMP range and don't even think about top speed or wide open throttle until after the break in.
My 2 cents, I'm no mechanic.
My 2 cents, I'm no mechanic.
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5,699 Posts
This is what I used to break mine in, I think, it's been a while:
0-300 miles @ 4K
300-600 @ 6K - have the valve adjust done by the shop
600-1000 @ 8K
1000+ @ redline - have the shop check the valves again, and then thrash it.
I'm at 40,000 miles, without a hiccup, so I'm thinking this works pretty good...
But like Kurt said, if you do it based on what the factory says, it can only be them that messes it up. Keep in mind, the scoring that you commit now if you beat the crap out of it right off the bat, might not show until much later in its life.
The reason I used the numbers I did, was because you can't over 38mph at 4K in 6th with the stock gearing, and I needed more to get to work and such. I got my ninja broken in in about 2 weeks commuting to work and taking joy-rides on the back roads in my area... I would also waive cars past as I had it locked at 4K for the first few days. Then I just couldn't stand it anymore, and broke at 300 miles.....
Best of luck, your patience WILL be tested!
0-300 miles @ 4K
300-600 @ 6K - have the valve adjust done by the shop
600-1000 @ 8K
1000+ @ redline - have the shop check the valves again, and then thrash it.
I'm at 40,000 miles, without a hiccup, so I'm thinking this works pretty good...
But like Kurt said, if you do it based on what the factory says, it can only be them that messes it up. Keep in mind, the scoring that you commit now if you beat the crap out of it right off the bat, might not show until much later in its life.
The reason I used the numbers I did, was because you can't over 38mph at 4K in 6th with the stock gearing, and I needed more to get to work and such. I got my ninja broken in in about 2 weeks commuting to work and taking joy-rides on the back roads in my area... I would also waive cars past as I had it locked at 4K for the first few days. Then I just couldn't stand it anymore, and broke at 300 miles.....
Best of luck, your patience WILL be tested!
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