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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the list of things I have done to my bike
Changed the gearing to 15/41 or 15/43 depending on what I am doing.I like 15/43 for general riding.15/41 is for highway.

I instaled a full Yoshimura exhaust system and K&N pods
I rejetted the carbs

I installed a metal chain guard
I put in a treathered kill switch A metal battery hold down and
metal valve stems. I also changed to water wetter
The last stuff is for racing rules at Maxton NC
I put metal foot pegs on
removed the rear fender and put on a tag tidy I got on E-bay for over 100 dollars.

There are other thing I have done like safty wire everthing and locktight the rest.

I still want to get raceteck springs and gold valve emulators. That is for later.
There are other things I am doing or planning . like I just painted the flat black side pieces gloss black to matck the rest. I will show photos when I finish that .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I get stuff from powersport rider .com or ebay
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All the engine stuff at once .
With the K&N filter you will need to rejet. with the stock exhaust I would not go with pods. the stock air box has velosity stacks that help with bottom end power. The jetting from the facory is lean enough as it is. I would take a stock bike and go with #39 pilot jets
and # 98 main with a washer or 2 under the needles.
I use a jet kit.and follow the instructions. the dynojet kit is good up to a slip on and an airfilter.
 

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AP full exhaust
heat wrap the header
Stage 2 jetting (98 jets and dynojet tapered needles
de-snorkeled airbox
drilled rear rotor
15/43 with alum sprocket
EMGO footpegs
Hyabusa lowering links (which actually raise rear 2 inches)
non O-ring chain
120/70/17 radial Metz M3 on rear
0w 40 synth oil
 

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Wow Generic, do you use your bike on the track? Alum sprocket and non O-Ring chain would suck for the street...unless you like replacing them all the time. lol
 

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Hey red-

the non O ring chain lasts just fine; simply keep it oiled and cleaned and it'll go as long as an O ring.

The sprockets dont last as long, but dropping a lb of rotating weight off the rear is worth it!
 

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Just about any sport shop should be able to hook you up. I got mine across the parts counter from Birchwood Honda. It was a special order but nothing serious, just wait time.
 

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Do they have it listed by application? Or do you just measure out what you need, and they get you something "universal"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Race Teck will make the springs according to you weight and riding style. Also the gold valve emulators are fantastic. the best thing you can do for the bike. A must do for the early generation as the suspention is to soft for safe riding IMO.
I dont know if they have things set up for the new ninja but they are great to deal with . Just give them a call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
you can custome tune the front fork oil by mixing weights.
Half a bottle of 10 weight and half a bottle of 20 weight .Makes a full bottle of 15 weight. over simplified but you get the idea.
 

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Darkhorse, I am thinking about getting the Yoshi full exhaust. I like the way it sounds and looks. Is it worth the money? Can you tell a difference in performance? Also, with that what else can I do to up the HP's some? At a reasonable price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I like the full Yoshi Exhaust. Because of the Quality and look . I have seen more power from Area P exhaust.
As for power. The reality is you have 25 hp stock and all the bolt on stuff will not make 30 hp. That said ,with proper jetting and the exhaust you DO get 20 % more power. That and taller gearing make the bike very enjoyable to ride
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Did you break the 30 hp barrier?
 
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