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Lowering the ninja

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S

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys, Finished up my front fork lowering blocks and mocked up the rear dog bones this weekend. Here are a few pics...

Here is a plate of Aluminum Its 10mm thick, I doubled up the shims to give the bars a rise of 20mm this translates in giving 4.5" of ground clearance to the front.








I also Shaved 1" off the seat, and mocked up a set of dog bones for the rear out of aluminum,(waiting on some 1/4" steel flat bar from a friend)



As the bike sits now my wife has no problem feeling comfy with the reach ;)


I will update when I fabricate the dog bones and test out the grown clearance,
It appears I have gone from 30.5 to 26.5" seat height...gotta shorten the side stand also ::)

Cheers
Sumo
 
T

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#3 ·
I was contemplating doing the same thing originally, but didn't think I could control the outcome of the part to be within tolerance. How did you machine those risers? I was going to be using my plasma and drill press... Yours look a little cleaner though, mini-mill?

Looks really nice man, hope mine turns out that well.
 
S

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Travisty said:
I was contemplating doing the same thing originally, but didn't think I could control the outcome of the part to be within tolerance. How did you machine those risers? I was going to be using my plasma and drill press... Yours look a little cleaner though, mini-mill?

Looks really nice man, hope mine turns out that well.
Click to expand...
Thanks guys, The fork risers were cut using a drill press,and hand held grinder,final shaping was a bench grinder and dremel...Aluminum is very soft, so it was really easy anyone can do it with a few tools..
NOTE The rear dog bones must be made from steel DON'T USE ALUMINUM.
Get busy, you can do it!!

Cheers
Sumo
 
E

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#5 ·
Sumo,nice work and quick.

You just take the words out of my mouth.Don't use Aluminium.Especilly sheet Alu.To soft,to weak.A gut Aluminum Alloy like AA 7075 on the other hand is ok but at least double the thickness.
Waiting to see more of your progress.
 
T

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#6 ·
SUMO said:
Travisty said:
I was contemplating doing the same thing originally, but didn't think I could control the outcome of the part to be within tolerance. How did you machine those risers? I was going to be using my plasma and drill press... Yours look a little cleaner though, mini-mill?

Looks really nice man, hope mine turns out that well.
Click to expand...
Thanks guys, The fork risers were cut using a drill press,and hand held grinder,final shaping was a bench grinder and dremel...Aluminum is very soft, so it was really easy anyone can do it with a few tools..
NOTE The rear dog bones must be made from steel DON'T USE ALUMINUM.
Get busy, you can do it!!

Cheers
Sumo
Click to expand...
Wow, really nice work for using a hand grinder! They look perfect.

I've already knocked out the dog bones in the rear using some 1/4" flat stock with the plasma... BTW, every additional 1/8" between holes (on center) will LOWER the bike a 1/4"! I extended the distance between both holes .625" and it lowered the bike 1.250" in the rear.
 
S

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Travisty said:
Wow, really nice work for using a hand grinder! They look perfect.

I've already knocked out the dog bones in the rear using some 1/4" flat stock with the plasma... BTW, every additional 1/8" between holes (on center) will LOWER the bike a 1/4"! I extended the distance between both holes .625" and it lowered the bike 1.250" in the rear.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the complements and measurements Travisty they will come in handy! I have them mocked up out of Aluminum now and have a ground clearance of 5" in front and rear but I would like to have an additional 1/4" in height in the rear,to load the front wheel.. you need that weight on the front end. taking weight off the front end lightens the front wheel making it more prone to high speed wobble, tank slapper or washing out in a turn that has bumps in it. Weight on the front end makes turning in easier. when you are trail breaking you load up on the front break drop into the turn and release the break at the apex of the turn as you get back on the gas. it is the fastest way to get around a turn. If you are light in the front you run the risk of washing out the front.
My wife is vertically challenged :) changing suspension and making a bike fit you is how you learn and grow as a rider. you will be a better rider when the bike feels perfect .

Cheers
Sumo
 
spooph

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#11 ·
edit: sorry, I'm not a lady, just noticed which section it was in... I can delete my post if you'd like... And I have been known to cross-dress occasionally, but that still doesn't mean I can do what a woman does...

Check this out:

http://www.newninja.com/modifications/lowering-the-ninja/

and from here on down is a great little discussion about lowering the bike and how it handles, lots of stuff to sift through though...

http://www.newninja.com/modifications/first-couple-mods-done/msg40925/#msg40925

So:
Handling, yes it will be affected, it won't be quite as flickable (or do I have that backwards?), but it will be so minute, I doubt you'll even notice... :p
 
Delta107

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#12 ·
spooph said:
edit: sorry, I'm not a lady, just noticed which section it was in... I can delete my post if you'd like... And I have been known to cross-dress occasionally, but that still doesn't mean I can do what a woman does...
Click to expand...
Thanks Spooph I now have root beer all over my computer! LMAO!
 
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