[Seg]

Hi all,

Background to my current situation.

In Australia we have design rules that specify that bikes rear turn signals are required to be 300mm apart from each other.
I bought my bike off my cousin who installed an integrated LED tail light (which I now know is illegal). The integrated flashes as normal. I've also lowered my bike and a friend pointed out that a truck would have trouble seeing the signal from my integrated. I agreed so I went out and bought a pack of LED turn signals.

TEST RUN
I've only installed the right rear LED turn signal - so to test my wiring went like this:

Left front: Stock bulb
Left back: Integrated LED tail light
Right front: Stock bulb
Right back: LED

Switch bike on and try the signals.
Pressing LEFT: Signals flash as normal
Pressing RIGHT: Signals solid.

I've returned it back to normal for now while I try to figure out how to fix the right side first.

My question:
Since I'm intending to install only rear LED signals with stock front ones, should I be using resistors to slow down the flash? Is there any other alternative?

Thanks in advance for your input!

 

[KoelSlaw]

Sounds like the right connector is diconnected on either the front or rear. As far as a resistor you may not need oen since there MAY be enough resistance with the originals still in the front.

 

[Zandit]

Hey Seg, I have the same integrated rear taillight, but the problem you are mentioning indicates there is either a blown fuse or bulb. The solid light is the telltale sign that something is wrong somewhere.

Did the lights flash at a normal rate before you started re-wiring? if they did, you may have an issue with the wires that are part of the new LED turn signals that you are installing.

If the indicators were flashing rather fast, then I would recommend replacing the flasher relay located behind the left hand black plastic panel under the seat. You will need a relay that is LED compatible, and is variable load. Bursons or Repco, maybe even Autobarn and supercheap should be able to supply one for you. Last bet would be an auto electrician. Don't let them try and get you to put in resisters, as they are just a waste of space, and made redundant by the relay.

where are you mounting the LED's BTW?

 

[Seg]

I'm mounting them on the sides of my fender eliminator.

I suspected a blown fuse but when I reconnect everything to my intergrated it works perfectly again
ie flashing normally for front and back

however
disconnect right rear wires from integrated
connect right rear wires to led turn
solid light for both front and back

a friend also said the LED rear turns might be sucking all the juice and to put 2-3 resistors on the rear wire only. As you suggested zandit I might just go out and get a flasher relay instead. Why do you not recommend resistors? Too much of a quick fix?

I suspect the integrated has resistors in it already (it's billed as plug and play after all)

 

[Blue Ghost]

I upgraded my turn signal relay to an electronic one and also moved it's location.


The one I installed was a Long Life Electronic Flasher w/ variable load capability, 11-15V, 15A, 2 pin, 6 Lamp capacity. This flasher or a brand like it will work both incandescent and led bulbs with no problem. Your LEDs, they are 2-wire?

The first step was to remove the left side body panels and seat. The standard flasher is hanging on the left side of the frame.
Unplug the flasher relay, then remove the wire from the plastic wire tie down, replace the tie down. Relocate the flasher wire somewhere near the other relays. Plug in the new flasher. I chose to mount the new flasher relay in between the fuse box and headlight relay. I did it with the rubber holder and zipties from the old flasher for easy access. You can choose not to change the location, but you will need a way to mount the new flasher relay. Test, then re-assemble

 

[spooph]

Seg you are correct, and zandit, totally on the right track. The integrated light must have built in resistors to be working plug-n-play. It sounds like the new lights aren't providing enough resistance for the stock relay to work. You can test this by putting a resistor in line, and seeing if it makes things work. If it does work, you can either ride it that way, or the better option would be to get the right relay. The one isn't necessary better or worse, but from an electrical stand-point, resistors simply burn up extra energy, whereas the new relay uses less electricity. Which is why the relay is a much "cleaner" option, in wiring and from an energy standpoint....

 

[Zandit]

Yep, +1 to all above!! I had resisters in, but they were still flashing quickly, and the indicators were not lighting up fully to be clear enough, and I almost had Wifey hit me from behind cause she didn't see my lights. The relay I used was a Narva brand

http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/12-volt-2-pin-electronic-led-flasher/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=relays-flashers-popup-layout

The resisters were just a PITA for someone who didn't really know what he was doing!!!