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This is also on ninjette.org. I'm getting lazy in my old age. I actually remembered to start taking pics when I started to re-assemble the bike so you might notice some inconsistencies:D:

-Put the bike on a rear stand, or jack stands so that it is secured and won't fall over.

- Remove the cotter pin in the front axle and break the nut loose.

-Lift up the bike by using a jack underneath the engine, right over the oil filter is a good strong area:

-Make sure the front wheel is about 3 inches off the ground, this offers clearance for the wheel to be remove from underneath the fender:

- Remove the axle nut and slide the axle out. Hold on the wheel at this point, otherwise it will just fall out.

- With the wheel removed, brake the rotor bolts loose. I believe these were 5mm allen (hex) bolts. I needed a long breaker bar to get these loose. Much like the stock bar-ends, Kawi coats the length of the thread with thread lock, so they're kind of stuck in there!

-New EBC rotor vs. old stock rotor:

-Apply new thread locker goo:

-Bolt the new rotor to the front wheel. Tighten bolts in a star pattern. 20ft. lbs. for rotor bolts. 4L is the bolt your looking for.

-New rotor on wheel:

-Old rotor over-layed on new rotor for comparison:

-Re-grease speedo drive:

-NOTE: Depending on how you have the bike suspended, and how comfortable you are with the jack underneath the bike (not the one supporting the rear wheel), slowly lower the bike, with the wheel between the forks, until the holes through the forks and the wheel line up. This can be a bit tricky and take some time, but it does make getting the axle in a bit easier. I usually just pick the wheel up and stick it in there. You have to be able to hold the wheel up with one hand for about 30sec - 1.5min depending on how to long it takes you to get everything lined up.

-NOTE: Once you've put the axle into the fork, through the speedo drive and onto the wheel, you can let go of the wheel to reposition that PITA bushing on the other side of the wheel.

-Re-grease the front axle and insert it through the whole front wheel assembly making sure to have both shims, one on each side, the speedo drive, and the washer on the nut side in the correct order. Tighten the front axle to 65ft. lbs.

-Re-pressurize the front brake. What the lever looks like without pressure:

-What happens the first few times. If this happens on the road, you're hosed, no brakes, no brakes:

-Properly pressurized system, the max the lever can be compressed:

-All of the tools I used during this exercise, you might not need as many:

-EBC product codes and ID #:

The EBC rotor cost me ~ $150, and this exercise took me about 30 minutes to complete. My chain then took me another 45 minutes to tighten correctly. :mad: I shouldn't wrench on the bike when I'm tired.

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