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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok... so i've been riding with sqealing brakes for god knows how long now and i've never bothered to take any sort of action about it. I had never bothered to clean my brake rotors before today because i had never thought to do it, and i think it may have taken its toll. My question is - do my brake rotors NEED to be replaced?

I am pretty sure they aren't warped, but the brakes do squeal and when i run my finger nail across the rotor it's a little like scratching those pictures where if you change the angle at which you're viewing the pic, it shows a different picture.

and i mean do i REALLY need new rotors. the pads are fine i believe, but i don't have the money to fork out for a pair of rotors (500 dollars.. i checked) + labor since i don't have the tools to take off the wheel

also, how and how often are you supposed to clean your brakes? the stupid manual doesn't say anything about it.. otherwise i probably would have been doing it
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What happens if i don't?... they still seem to work fine

the grooves are REALLY tiny.. i'm not even sure they're worth mentioning.. it's just that infernal squealing that makes me wonder

could the brakes wear themselves back to even? XD...
 

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if u have plenty of pad, and u clean them best u can i wouldn't worry about it yet.
they'll most likely heat up more then they should with heavy braking.
NNNn if they rrr tiny i really wouldn't worry bout it....
U most likely got a little sand in them n that's what made the scratches...
That'd be normal....
just drive easy...., but...
plan to change them when the time comes if they get worse....
I'm sure mine have some fine scratches too....
I drive a few gravel road to get to a friends house....








 

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Very slight grooves can be normal. Most times deep grooves are formed because of dirt and debris (mud, rust, pebbles, metal shavings) trapped between the pad and rotor. Brake drag usually results in one pad wearing faster than the other (normally the inner pad).

If you have deep grooves forming, take off the caliper and lightly sand the brake pad and clean the rotor and caliper. Keeping the calipers clean helps the piston move freely. Caked on brake dust can become a problem later and possibly seize up your brake pistons if they are that dirty.

Keep in mind that bike rotors normally do not get resurfaced or turned like car brake rotors. They are too thin. There are a few shops that specialize in grinding the rotors surface, but the rotor must be well within factory specs and not warped. Replacement is the usual fix if the rotor is heavily grooved, warped or damaged.


I got a set of Galfer Brake Rotors. (still haven't installed them yet)

They appear of very good quality and look better than OEM. Will post a review when I get them installed. My rotors have over 22,000 miles and just barely with in spec. I ordered them from

HardRacing.com - 704-799-2192
264 Rolling Hill Rd.
Mooresville, NC 28117 U.S.A.

OHLINS Premier Dealer_Great Prices, Tech.Support, Full Staff of Sales Reps, Fast WORLD WIDE Shipping,
Large Inventory and Excellent Customer Service.​

If you call ask for Leonard and tell him you want the best deal on The Galfer Solid Mount Wave Rotors for the Ninja 250 DF203w Front & DF204 Rear. Let him know you heard about them from the forum. He should be able to do $159.00 on the front and $109.00 on the rear rotors.

You may also want to get a Digital Thickness Gauge so you can keep track of the thickness of the rotors, despite the fact that your current pads seem ok. Depending on how you ride, use and maintain the brakes will determine on how fast the rotors wear.

The tools contained in the bike's stock tool kit can take off both front and rear wheels and calipers if necessary. However since you've never bothered to clean the brakes or anything, it may make any removal more difficult. Regular wheel maintenance and inspection is crucial.
 

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Tools to
Take off a front tire are literally a wrench and and Allen wrench. And a set of ratchet straps to
Lift the bike up. Don't change your rotors just yet. Brake dust can lead to squealing But also u may have a what looks to be enough pad but may not on one side. Some bikes have more pressure on the back side of the rotors. Which can cause them to go bad before the dead side of the brake caliper. Check both sides of each caliper. As suggested. Use sandpaper and scratch up the rotors. They can't be turned. Use hand sanding not a end or side grinder so you don't get the rotor off balance. Sand evenly. Not just in spots. Then sand the brake pads as well Put it all back on and you should have a squeal less bike. While you are it put on some brake grease too. Anything can help
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think my front rotor will survive, but after taking a very close look/feel of my rear rotor, there appears to be a circular lump that goes all the way around the middle of the rotor T_T...

Be sure and post how well those rotors work out... i do believe they're cheaper than OEM and if they're better quality... yay i suppose.
 
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