Suggestion is this. Spray a lot of lubricant in to the lock. A lot of it!!!! Change the o ring on the gas cap. But if you still need too, change it with a screw off cap so having to have an extra key is not an issue. You would be a lot better probably with the stock cap, just may need to get a locksmith to service the keys inside the lock itself
Gas Cap Corrosion
Hello,
I have a ninja 400 and I have been having some problems with the gas cap key corroding and basically seizing up. At this point I need to likely replace the cap, but am unsure what aftermarket one to replace it with. I am looking at something that is just screw off, with no lock. Does anyone have suggestions for what to look into?
Thanks,
Andrew
I have a ninja 400 and I have been having some problems with the gas cap key corroding and basically seizing up. At this point I need to likely replace the cap, but am unsure what aftermarket one to replace it with. I am looking at something that is just screw off, with no lock. Does anyone have suggestions for what to look into?
Thanks,
Andrew
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
What he said!Suggestion is this. Spray lubricant in to the lock. A lot of it. Change the o ring on the gas cap. But if you still need to Chane it. With a screw off cap so having to have an extra key is not an issue. You would be a lot better probably with the stock cap just may need to get a locksmith to service the keys
The problem with the Ninja 400 (like my 09 Ninja 250) gas cap most times is lack of lube in and around the key tumbler. Over time the factory lube will dry and make the lock hard to turn. Also corrosion can set in a tiny bit if the bike is left outside.
This solution is not so simple. If it is completely stuck, the gas cap needs to be broken down to the point where the key tumbler is exposed and all parts removed and cleaned. The tumbler assembly and latch need some lube to prevent corrosion, then reassembled. I took my gas cap off and completely disassembled it. Inside, around the too small one-way diaphragms were white crystals where gas vapors had dried. Every piece of rubber was cleaned and the key tumbler re-lubed, then re-assembled. I also did the gas cap mod.
DO NOT USE POWDERED GRAPHITE in the key hole. A little liquid lube on your key may work, even spraying lube into the keyhole, is not enough to get to the bottom of the key tumbler where it meets the most resistance while turning. There are brass components that touch and one turns on the other. This is where you want grease.
Try these things to see what works better.
This solution is not so simple. If it is completely stuck, the gas cap needs to be broken down to the point where the key tumbler is exposed and all parts removed and cleaned. The tumbler assembly and latch need some lube to prevent corrosion, then reassembled. I took my gas cap off and completely disassembled it. Inside, around the too small one-way diaphragms were white crystals where gas vapors had dried. Every piece of rubber was cleaned and the key tumbler re-lubed, then re-assembled. I also did the gas cap mod.
DO NOT USE POWDERED GRAPHITE in the key hole. A little liquid lube on your key may work, even spraying lube into the keyhole, is not enough to get to the bottom of the key tumbler where it meets the most resistance while turning. There are brass components that touch and one turns on the other. This is where you want grease.
Try these things to see what works better.
Byte and Zandit - I have tried using a penetrating lube which was working for me the end of last season, but unfortunately I do have the bike outside and weather has likely accelerated the problem since the Fall season. I have been trying every other day to get it open and applying a generous about of spray into and around the keyhole.
Ghost - You do appear to have the most likely solution. I was aware that drilling it out would be the likely course of action. What you are saying is I can possibly take the assembly apart and attempt to clean up the corrosion and still use it once I get that back together? What do I do about the drilled hole?
I have see the How-To video you linked, since the 250 is backwards to the 400 for opening direct, do you think the screw location is in the same place (relatively) if I need to drill it out?
Have any of you replaced the key'd cap for a non-key'd cap, and do you have any suggestions with what ones to look at purchasing?
Ghost - You do appear to have the most likely solution. I was aware that drilling it out would be the likely course of action. What you are saying is I can possibly take the assembly apart and attempt to clean up the corrosion and still use it once I get that back together? What do I do about the drilled hole?
I have see the How-To video you linked, since the 250 is backwards to the 400 for opening direct, do you think the screw location is in the same place (relatively) if I need to drill it out?
Have any of you replaced the key'd cap for a non-key'd cap, and do you have any suggestions with what ones to look at purchasing?
as a quick side note... it is best not to overfill your gas tank, to avoid backflow of petrol into the gas cap locking systemHello,
I have a ninja 400 and I have been having some problems with the gas cap key corroding and basically seizing up. At this point I need to likely replace the cap, but am unsure what aftermarket one to replace it with. I am looking at something that is just screw off, with no lock. Does anyone have suggestions for what to look into?
Thanks,
Andrew
now that summer is around the corner, remember also that petrol will expand when exposed to the heat from the sun
You can skip drilling out the vent hole in the cap if you dont have a problem with the cap venting. The cap and lock can be disassembled/reassembled and used, but you need a little patience and skill to do it.Ghost - You do appear to have the most likely solution. I was aware that drilling it out would be the likely course of action. What you are saying is I can possibly take the assembly apart and attempt to clean up the corrosion and still use it once I get that back together? What do I do about the drilled hole?
I have see the How-To video you linked, since the 250 is backwards to the 400 for opening direct, do you think the screw location is in the same place (relatively) if I need to drill it out?
Have any of you replaced the key'd cap for a non-key'd cap, and do you have any suggestions with what ones to look at purchasing?
The gas caps can be replaced with (keyless) racing type twist caps, however you leave the bike vunerable to vanadalism/tampering especially since the bike is exposed.
Slingshot racing may have what youre looking for. http://http://www.slingshotracing.n...ts-aluminum-billet-c-11_5.html?page=2&sort=3a
But if I can not turn the key to open the cap, I would have to drill the hole to get that inner screw would I not? Or does the related video you linked earlier about the 250 gas cap mod not have the same relevance for the 400?You can skip drilling out the vent hole in the cap if you dont have a problem with the cap venting. The cap and lock can be disassembled/reassembled and used, but you need a little patience and skill to do it.
Try spraying Lub in the key hole. Use a little pressure to turn the key then lightly tap the part of the gas cap that comes up with a lot of small taps. That should help it open and may even free up the corrosion. Spray it again heavily. Then as Ghost said clean the mechanism. I tell people a lot when it comes to your key tumblers to see a locksmith because you don't want to put the tumblers back in wrong shut the cap and realize you can't get it back open. However if you do clean the mechanism you should lightly lightly sand the tumbler plates to remove the corrosion
There are a couple of different reasons for drilling. Yes, one being to to remove the hole cap assembly (like in the video you were looking at) and the other to make the vent hole bigger.But if I can not turn the key to open the cap, I would have to drill the hole to get that inner screw would I not? Or does the related video you linked earlier about the 250 gas cap mod not have the same relevance for the 400?
I'd avoid drilling to remove the whole gas cap assy as much as possible. Sometimes pushing down on the cap while turning the key is enough to get the cap to open. Be sure to work the key up and down gently to work the tumblers. If all else fails you have the other option.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Kawasaki Ninja Forum
A forum community dedicated to Kawasaki Ninja owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Recommended Communities
