Kawasaki Ninja Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey all

so I just got my yoshi c-f full and jet kit in the mail. i will be updating this thread as I progress on installing it.

currently waiting on my stealership to get in some exhaust gaskets, so the muffler install is delayed until then. to tide you over, here are unboxing pix.

exhaust!


sweet packaging. they just sprayed that foam in there to keep everything in place.


still in bags. i dont wanna get my greasy mitts on the pipes and cause discoloration.. :) im ocd like that




contents of the dynojet kit. jet needles in upper left, needle jets on right.


stay tuned for more. I will be updating as things happen. i will include a good breakdown of the carbs to install the ket kit, and the exhaust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
thanks man, I'm really looking forward to the jet kit write up. that's one major modification that hasn't been written up yet. have you read the instructions for installing the jet kit and does it look complicated?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i havent actually read the included instructions, but i know what to do. replace jet needles, replace needle jets, drill/change mixture screw. should be easy.

also, ill try to use my actual digital camera instead of my phone. that way the pix wont be bad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok i decided to fit the silencer into the pipe, before i mount it. turns out, they only kinda punched out the hole that the bolt is supposed to mount through, so i had to whack at it, and ended up dremeling it smooth, because part of the metal was keeping the silencer from going in all the way.

so first take out the rubber stopper here:


the hole in the c-f goes to the currently occupied hole punched in the metal.


i had to whack at the halfpunched circle for a while to get it to come up like this


so after you get that hole clear, here is the silencer: (and make sure you dremel off any excess metal that will impede a flush fitting insert)


start tapping it in with w/e you have. i used the rubber coated butt of a screwdriver. :)


once the silencers lip is flush with the canister, put the bolt through the hole, to secure it. plug up the hole with the rubber thing again.


sorry for being so verbose... im going CRAZY waiting for my exhaust gaskets... i dont wanna do the jetkit w/o the exhaust, because i want my bike ridable. its so nice here, i wanna ride as much as possible, and then have my bike apart for as little time as possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok. after about 7 hours of install time, (including driving out to get my frickin exhaust gaskets), its all done.
see my thoughts at the end. NO CHEATING! :-D
btw, i gloss over alot that you should be able to follow by reading the maintenance manual. surely you werent thinking about attempting this w/o the manual. because that would be dumb. very dumb. ;-)

critical info:
needle e-clip on 3rd position from top.
no airbox mods. snorkel intact
dj098 main jets used

jetkit first:
remove black plastic piece, and seat


remove front fairings




gastank needs to come off. make sure you either mark or know where all the tubes go




take out the battery and holder. loosen the securing bolts for the airbox


battery out!


the battery holder out too


ok. now there is a big gap: getting the carbs out was a pain in the ass. you need to disconnect some tubes, and loosen the clamps securing the airbox to the carbs, and the clamps securing the carbs to the engine. there wasnt alot of space, and i had to spend about an hour coaxing it out of there. also, you have to disconnect the throttle cables, and the choke cables, which means you have to open up both boxes on the handle bars. again, use the manual.

here it is out. rear side, towards airbox


front side towards engine


unscrew the 4 screws holding down that black cap, and pull it off. you are greeted with this:


take out the spring and the plastic seat thing (white)


here is the order of assembly, w/o the diaphram shown. my 1 washer shim is next to it


here is a close up comparison of the 2 needles. stock right, dj left


needles, with the eclip and their 2 spacers. spacers go ON TOP OF THE E-CLIP. not like the shim where it goes under the head of the needle


here is the needle with the e-clip in 3rd position from top.


stick everything back into the diaphragm


set the spring in the center of the black cap. make sure the diaphram's lip is tucked into the metal correctly. you dont want to pinch the diaphram. just ask spooph.


left side is harder. you have to remove the vacuum slide, and get those 2 tubes out of your way.


now we need to install the main jets, and dril out the fuel/air mixture screw.
this is the carb with the bottom off:

float = white

now this is where things got... interesting. i unscrewed the bottom of the carb sideways, and gas went EVERYWHERE. soaked everything, including my phone that i was using to take pictures. the whole phone was sopping by the time i got to it. display is like an aquarium. keys are all clicky cause the gas reacted with the plastic. all the stickers on the battery got all gummy... im messing with it, but note to all: unscrew the carb bottom with the bottom facing UP!

so here is the main jet. first gold thing below the floats


dj098 on the left, stock jet and tube thing on the right. the tube screws in, then the jet screws into it. dont have to take out the tube, but i did cause im stupid. :)


hold in the tube with a wrench/spanner or w/e, then unscrew the jet with a flathead.


now time to drill out the fuel/air mixture screws. its covered by that plug that has a bit of sharpie on it


plug sucessfully violated.


stick that screw in there, then use a pair o pliers to pull it out.


now that you can see the screw, screw it back in, and count the number of turns.
my left one was like .75 turns different from my right one. could account for some of the wonkyness i was having


now turn it out slowly 3 full turns. you want both screws to be the same number of revolutions out, but they dont necessarily have to be pointing the same way. mine werent.

now, put back in the carbs, and make sure all the hoses are hooked up. this completes the jetkit installation. next up is the exhaust:

if you get an exhaust, dont skimp. buy the gaskets. also, dont be like me and try to get the gaskets late, cause i ended up having to wait for a long time.


take off the heatshield of the exhaust


loosen exhaust clamp


unbolt the exhaust hangar


slide that mother off!


here are the headers. loosen up the bolts


there is a hidden bolt below the footpegs. dont forget this one.


old grody headers



new hotness :) install the copper gaskets onto the new headers, like the one on the right


bolt er in... 9ft lbs of torque? i forget, its not something you need a cheater bar for.


ok that part is done.


i applied the rubber insulator to the exhaust hangar.


slip that hangar onto the exhaust


slide the exhaust onto the header, and bolt it on. the big silver washer from the stock hangar gets moved from the outside to the inside, per yoshimura instructions.


w/o the heatshield


put the hooks on where the header joins the canister. this is about under the foot pegs.


both secured


now put the heatshield on



now you are done. reassemble, and see if the bike works ;-)
i only had 1 leftover piece when i was done! i forgot to put this back on:

it goes on where the tank mounts. im planning on putting it back on tomorrow. it sucks cause i have to take off all the body panels again.. but its ok, at least it wasnt something from the carbs :)

ill put up b4 and after pix later. gotta clean my bike, and im really tired.

review:

so first starting the bike i thought i f**ked something up. it didnt wanna start, choked out, ran rich, then lean, yadda yadda. i primed the carbs, and that helped a bit, but it just didnt wanna idle nice for me. then i figured out that it was cause i only had a gallon in the tank, and it was on the rear stand. i took it down, bumped the idle a bit, and it runs great.
with the silencer in, it sounds badass. subdued, but still badass. ill try with out the silencer later, and hopefully up a youtube.
the jetkit is amazing. now it really does pull all the way to redline. it has a much smoother power curve. it has power from about 3k, and is basically linear up as far as you want it. it definitely moves alot faster, and is WAY more fun to ride. the 2fiddy review of it is really spot on. go check it out if you need more incentive to get the kit.
seriously. get this.

any questions, or w/e, let me know. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,695 Posts
spot on gummybear! Thanks for the side by side needle comparison.
And how high is St. Louis?
I'm at 5,000 feet above sea level, with currently a wide open air box, and soon wide open exhaust, so I need to guestimate my first jet size, and probably modify my air/fuel mixture screw turns as well....

Oh, and to put that bar back onto your tank, you only have to remove the seat, and for that, you only need to remove the two black side panels....

Enjoy, please post up some vids and a dyno run if you can...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@spooph i think its around 400ft? you will have to be alot leaner at that altitude, but if your airbox is open, and you have an open exhaust, i would say start at dj098, and maybe put the e-clip on the 2nd space instead of the 3rd to start. the main jets dont really kick in until half throttle to WOT. i know alot of people wanna use the biggest jets they can, because they think bigger=faster. but thats why some people have backfires. i dont have any backfires. smooth as butter. :)

@felix i rode it for like 5 or 7 miles after i installed it, to make sure everything worked. its fantastic! a problem is, however, that my legit camera is missing its sd card. i think my roommate has it, but hes in italy, so i cant do any vids until he gets back. ill need to conscript someone into doing the filming too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,695 Posts
as per your recommendations, and after pricing the individual parts out, I got the same jet kit ordered today. It is cheapest after all.. Thanks, I'll give those settings a shot when I get it and see what happens... Great bike, and thanks a bunch for the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@angelforce no i dont have really any experience with engines. only fixing things here and there. this was the biggest project i have ever undertaken on an engine :)

@spooph sweet. how much did you pay? i think mine was 67bux from motorcycle-superstore. and with regard to the settings, i followed the instructions, because im sure they know better than I do.. but man, it sure does run great! so much smoother, sounds infinitely better, better power curve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
AWESOME JOB....CONGRATS!!!!! Still not sure I'd try this....seems pretty hard even with the step by step instructions you gave. There is no way a dealship would have problems doing this would they?? Sometimes I worry that the guy working on my bike maybe no better if hes sloppy and uncareful. It really is a worry either way isnt it?? I mean if i do it myself i would be careful but dont know my head from ass, and if a dealer does it he may have the knowledge but not the passion......oh my!!! What to do about this dynojet kit problem...aaarrrggghhh!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
I just got the same jet kit installed last week, and I have the Yoshi pipe also but in Stainless. I wish I had the confidence to install the jet kit myself, but I dont, and I wanted it done right so I had it done at the dealership I bought the bike at. Installation cost $156.00, so nice job to you doing it yourself.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top