Kawasaki Ninja Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
I heard that you break an engine in the way you will ride it to an extent. I babied mine for about 200 miles until I got used to my bike considering it is my first one, and then I just started riding it like usual and when I took it to the dealer for the 600mile service, they dynoed it nd it was producing peak power even though I did not go by the rpm rule it states. My salesmen even told me to not go by the book because at 4K rpm thats 35mph (a little redicualous haha). But my bike runs fine it tops somewhere around 105 and I weigh 200lbs. thought i'd give my two cents haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
thats a good article and im doing the same thing with my bike. running it between 4k and 7k rpm and ive only done 59 miles on it so far
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
not too sure tbh...i think it would be natural to start off with like most bikes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,695 Posts
The ninja doesn't ship with oil. The local shop puts it in... So if you order a new one, you can request they put in whatever you want (extra for synthetic).... Most shops put in regular dino-juice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
spooph what RPM's did you run your ninja at in break in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Synthetic oil is a BAD oil for breakin.It's too slippery and will not let the ring bedin propperly.Use normal mineral oil to breakin and change to synthetic after about 3000 km or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
+ 10000000

listen to eric on this one. there have been many topics covering this. it is best to break the bike in using mineral oil to help the internals break in better. as far as when you can switch over to synthetic, there are many different opinions but it seems that most people think you should put at least 1000-2000 miles on it first before switching over. some people have said that the bike seems to shift more smoothly after swapping over, but that could be biased thinking on their part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,695 Posts
metbandit1 said:
spooph what RPM's did you run your ninja at in break in?
From 0-200 miles I kept it to 4,000rpms. From 200-400 miles I kept it to 6,000rpms. From 400-600 miles I kept it to 8,000rpms... At 600 miles I ran it to red line regularly until my valves started chattering, and went in for my "1st service/valve adjustment" at around 1,000miles... The biggest thing I focused on was "heat cycles". I would ride 15-30 minutes to work so it was nice and warm, and then let it sit for a few hours while I worked.... Contrary to what some have said, it didn't make sense to me in my mind that a "heat cycle" is mean to heat treat the rings on a cylinder... I just know from working with all kinds of metals that two pieces of metal scraping against one another form to one another better if they're repeatedly slowly heated and cooled together... I have no science to base this on, and I don't care much for the manufacturer's recommendations. Like I said in another thread, I maintain my bike as if it were a person in a loving relationship, so I do what it needs when it needs it, not when the parents (kawasaki) say I should. :D

There are so many schools of thought on this, I don't actually think there is a "correct" answer... Especially not a generic one for ALL bikes...

Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I agree with Eric regarding the Synthetic and would wait untill at least 2000 miles to switch to synthetic, and definatly worth the little extra money . As far as the break in , ride it like you would normally most importantly dont hold it at the same rpm for too long , work the motor and tranny , but dont beat the shit out of it either . I just kept it varying between 60-75 mph on the freeway. thats 8-9000 rpm in 6th for the first 600miles then every 50 miles after up the rpm by 1000 . at 1000miles red lining should be safe . I think the general consensus is to ride it like you would to keep in traffic and dont abuse it too often after like anything with a motor. I think most of the crutial seating takes place within the first 50 miles anyway. Change the oil sooner than later too prevent those tiny metal bits from stick to the case walls.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
This is a good topic because this is the first NEW bike I've ever owned. So I'm worreid that I'm riding it too hard as it's not how the manual specifies. But then again, I'm not riding it HARD either.

Also, I've seen the recommendation to get an oil change RIGHT AWAY- after even 20 miles:

"The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. .... You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc..."

Is this true?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
As spooph said in his post above make sure you concentrate on the heat cycles, there shouldn't be anything wrong with redlining it, as long as the bike is warm!

I couldn't tell you about the oil issue, i doubt it affects your engine that much because if it did the manufacturers wouldn't say run it for 600miles before its serviced!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top