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Red, I think this topic also needs to be moved to HOW TO - thanks. You can remove the message when you put it there, or leave it for me, I'll edit and take it out.
REAR PADS:
Just like with the front, you can break the pan pins loose first, before you remove the caliper, which will make it easier, but in order to do this, you have to remove the muffler... I'm lazy, so I started with removing the caliper and using my awesome nerdy man-strength to brake them loose in my hand - don't be fooled, they are quite tight in there.... These are the two bolts that hold the caliper to the rear swing arm. Remove them.
Removed:
Tilt the caliper off the rear disc, and eventually off the entire wheel:
This is where I broke the pad pins loose, it was a chore...
Slide the pins out:
Take out the brake pads. Old compared to new:
Compress the pistons:
Mount the new pads, and reseat the pins, making sure to keep as much space in between the two as possible - makes it easy to put back on the disc...
Slide it back on the disc:
Bolt it back onto the swing arm member:
Just like with the front brakes, make sure to pump up the lines before you go riding... "Dead" position of the pedal - no pressure:
Compared with full extension of the of the pedal, and no brake engagement:
BRAKE FLUID:
Undo rear reservoir cap safety bracket:
Take cap off, push rubber vacuum cap back into place so it looks like this, and doesn't get screwed up when you put it back in:
Add/Remove fluid as necessary - this fluid is about 1.4 years old, and has undergone 19,000 miles of abuse, so it's due for a change. This I will post as a video under bleeding brakes.
VERY IMPORTANT: YOUR NEW BRAKE PADS NEED TO BE BROKEN IN. THEY WILL NOT STOP YOU AS FAST AS YOUR USED TO IF THEY HAVEN'T BEEN SCUFFED IN. I RECOMMEND TAKING THE BIKE ON A STRAIGHT BACK ROAD AND RUNNING IT UP TO 40 OR 50 MPH AND BRAKING HARD TWO OR THREE TIMES. This will ensure that the brakes are completely seated on the rotor, and have any residue, etc, worn off, and will give you lots of brake grip.
ENJOY!
REAR PADS:
Just like with the front, you can break the pan pins loose first, before you remove the caliper, which will make it easier, but in order to do this, you have to remove the muffler... I'm lazy, so I started with removing the caliper and using my awesome nerdy man-strength to brake them loose in my hand - don't be fooled, they are quite tight in there.... These are the two bolts that hold the caliper to the rear swing arm. Remove them.

Removed:
.jpg)
Tilt the caliper off the rear disc, and eventually off the entire wheel:
.jpg)
This is where I broke the pad pins loose, it was a chore...
.jpg)
Slide the pins out:
.jpg)
Take out the brake pads. Old compared to new:
.jpg)
Compress the pistons:
.jpg)
.jpg)
Mount the new pads, and reseat the pins, making sure to keep as much space in between the two as possible - makes it easy to put back on the disc...
.jpg)
Slide it back on the disc:
.jpg)
Bolt it back onto the swing arm member:
.jpg)
Just like with the front brakes, make sure to pump up the lines before you go riding... "Dead" position of the pedal - no pressure:
.jpg)
Compared with full extension of the of the pedal, and no brake engagement:
.jpg)
BRAKE FLUID:
Undo rear reservoir cap safety bracket:
.jpg)
Take cap off, push rubber vacuum cap back into place so it looks like this, and doesn't get screwed up when you put it back in:
.jpg)
.jpg)
Add/Remove fluid as necessary - this fluid is about 1.4 years old, and has undergone 19,000 miles of abuse, so it's due for a change. This I will post as a video under bleeding brakes.
.jpg)
VERY IMPORTANT: YOUR NEW BRAKE PADS NEED TO BE BROKEN IN. THEY WILL NOT STOP YOU AS FAST AS YOUR USED TO IF THEY HAVEN'T BEEN SCUFFED IN. I RECOMMEND TAKING THE BIKE ON A STRAIGHT BACK ROAD AND RUNNING IT UP TO 40 OR 50 MPH AND BRAKING HARD TWO OR THREE TIMES. This will ensure that the brakes are completely seated on the rotor, and have any residue, etc, worn off, and will give you lots of brake grip.
ENJOY!