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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm installing a pair of Roaring Toyz adjustable lowering links. They are around $20 on ebay and supposedly can drop the rear up to 3". This is a easy mod and it doesn't take much to do.
Tools Required

- A stand for your bike or one like I made with jack stands
- jack(car or floor)will help you line up the links.
- 19mm and 17mm wrenches, not the ones that came with your bike. Get better ones.
- an extra pair of hands doesn't hurt!

So get your back tire off the ground, I fabbed up some posts to rest on jack stands with some pipe and bolts. Really easy and only cost about $8.

Next, take your jack and place it under your rear shock, where the bottom bolt is connecting your links. Now lift the the jack up to touch the assembly but don't lift the bike off your stand.

Now use your wrenches to remove the two bolts holding the links on, bottom bolt first. The left side is a 17 and the right is a 19 i think. this took a little persuading with another wrenched used for leverage.(NOTE: I didn't place my jack under there yet, don't forget to!) Remove the bottom nut, then the top one

With the nuts off you can push the bolts through. There is a metal sleeve around these bolts, push them back in the hole so they don't come out with your bolts. Now the links are off, I'm dropping my bike 1.5" so i'm using my middle hole/they should be a bit longer then your stock links:

There are rubber grommets where the bolt was, don't lose them:

Install your top bolt first so it will hold up your new links. You can SLOWLY lower your jack until the bottom hole lines up with the bottom of the link. when it does, put the bolt in and do the same on the other side.

Tighten up your nuts, I didn't check torque specs you may want to, they were lock nuts so screw it.
Lower that jack some more and watch your bike begin to drop until your links are supporting it.

Take it of the stand and check for clearance issues, I didn't have any at all. My feet are flat on the ground now so I'm going to leave it. This WILL change the way your bike handles, so be careful. I don't really like it, but it will be fine until I do the front a couple of months from now.

The quality of the links I used have been questioned by others, so I will let you know if I have any problems. good luck & happy modding :p
 

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Re: Installing Rear Lowering Links

Good writeup and great pics. This should answer tons of questions that people have about lowering their bikes. Good job :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Installing Rear Lowering Links

^thanks everyone. It's almost pointless washing that bike, the roads/weather here are so crappy. :-\
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Installing Rear Lowering Links

The difference visually before and after is negligible. Some one here once stated that if you lower the rear 1.5" and not the front, it is equivalent to you lowering the bike only .75". I don't know whether this is true or not but it makes since from what I can see.
 

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Re: Installing Rear Lowering Links

That was me, IIRC... Think about it this way:

You have a stick that measures 24" from the ground to any point on the stick. You lower one end by 12", a total of 50%. Measure to one end, it's 12", the middle is 18" (half of the total distance moved), and the other end is still 24".

So, you don't lower the bike by .75".. You really are lowering the rear end of the bike by 1.5", but that's right over the rear axle. The front is stock, so the center of the bike is only 50% lower.

Make sense?, because I confused myself..
 

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Surprisingly how many people buy ready made stuff when they can fabricate one themself cheaply.Hence you have access to good tools.
Lowering or lifting the back is not an issue here.
By moveing the hole of the tie rod in or out will determine the hight of the tail.
With a little measureing and calculation it came out that each 1 centimeter of tempering with hole the tail will change hight 4 centimeter.
I wanted my tail to be 4 centimeter higher than std.So I move the holes IN by 1 centimeter.By moveing hole I meant,fabricate a totally new tie rod myself.I use stainless steal of the near std measurement.Stainless steal is much thougher then normal steal.Look at the pics.
Good write up though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was going to fabricate them but they were only like 20 bucks. I'm not sure if it is worth the time to take the measurements, buy materials, cut, drill, round off the edges> all considering you have access to tools. Now the $36 muffler on the other hand makes a lot of sense!
 

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As I have the nessesery tolls already I spent 180 THB(Thai Baht),that's around 5 bucks,on two ready cut stailess steal bars.Actually it's not the cost saving but simply the fun doing it.
 
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