Joined
·
5,699 Posts
Right, so along with the many other projects I did in the "Crazed 2 weeks of Spooph fondling his 2fiddy" I installed steel braided lines, cleaned, inspected and painted the calipers. The steel braided line install is what started the "while I'm in there, I might as well do this" progression. If you don't know what I'm talking about, it's listed here: http://www.newninja.com/forums/f98/spoophs-250-build-5682.html[url]http://www.newninja.com/forums/f98/spoophs-250-build-5682.html[/URL]
And here we go:
Rear Brake:
You can remove the rearsets and remove the rear brake master cylinder if you want, but I was too lazy to do this because I rarely use the rear brakes anyway. I'm simply installed braided steel lines on the rear brakes for aesthetic reasons, I've never felt them fade...
If you'd like, remove the rearsets be removing these 2 bolts:
You're also going to want to remove the rear wheel - it's easier to remove the rear caliper that way. You can get away with not doing it, but it's a bit of a PITA getting the hex-head socket in to the 2 mounting bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket, which is held to the swing arm by a rail and the pressure of the rear wheel being in place. Here you also have an option - drain the system as much as you can and it will be less messy, or just unbolt it and wipe up any juice that spills, or don't drain it and wipe up more juice. You could also remove the system in it's entirety, but then you have to clamp all the parts in a vice to get the bolts loose. I opted to just take it apart and catch any of the highly corrosive brake fluid that flows out.
Undo the hose leading to the caliper:
Remove the caliper:
Now is an easy time to further drain the system and get the master cylinder empty, which means less brake fluid leaking out onto the swing arm/exhaust.
First remove the reservoir cap to allow the system to breath freely:
Make sure to remove the rubber expansion seal:
Store the cap, plastic pressure washer and rubber expansion seal together so nothing gets lost or hurt:
Now drain the system by pumping the rear brake until no more fluid comes out:
Then remove the brake line from the master cylinder by removing the banjo bolt, as you did with the caliper.
It might be a good idea to wrap a rag around the area to catch any fluid that WILL leak out.
I then moved onto removing the front caliper, being that I wanted to paint both of them at the same time. Before removing the caliper, brake the pad retention pins loose. These suckers get tight, and it's easier to do on the bike. For the rear caliper I'll have to clamp it in a vice to get them loose cause they're a PITA to get to while the rear caliper is on the bike.
Dirty dirty dirty calipers! ;D
2 brake pad retention bolts removed, 2 brake pads removed, 2 caliper bracket (attachment to forks) loosened, soon to be removed, and 1 hose guide bent open to remove line. You could also remove the line from caliper and feed it through, but that's messier than I'd liked... There is also a reason I'm doing this, bare with me. At this point, the front brake system is removed from the bike as a solid unit.
Next it's time to brake loose the front brake reservoir/master cylinder unit screws to get to the fluid inside. If they don't come loose easily, find a screw driver that fits them nicely and hit it with a hammer. Don't be shy, HIT IT! They will loosen up considerably.
If that doesn't work, clamp it in a vice, use the same proper fitting screw driver and a pair of vice grips to attain the required slow-steady force to remove these suckers. No matter how carefully I put them in, they always do this to me. It's always a struggle. Why? Because steel and aluminium fuze together in what's called a "cold weld", which microscopically the aluminium molds to the steel because it's softer. The heat/cold of the reservoir being in the sun, in addition to the heat generated by the system from regular use aids in this "welding". This means... MORE FORCE! ;D
I ended up damaging the screws a bit, but not enough to require replacements in my book:
mmmmmmm, delicious 2 year old, 40K mile abused brake fluid!
And here we go:
You can remove the rearsets and remove the rear brake master cylinder if you want, but I was too lazy to do this because I rarely use the rear brakes anyway. I'm simply installed braided steel lines on the rear brakes for aesthetic reasons, I've never felt them fade...
If you'd like, remove the rearsets be removing these 2 bolts:
You're also going to want to remove the rear wheel - it's easier to remove the rear caliper that way. You can get away with not doing it, but it's a bit of a PITA getting the hex-head socket in to the 2 mounting bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket, which is held to the swing arm by a rail and the pressure of the rear wheel being in place. Here you also have an option - drain the system as much as you can and it will be less messy, or just unbolt it and wipe up any juice that spills, or don't drain it and wipe up more juice. You could also remove the system in it's entirety, but then you have to clamp all the parts in a vice to get the bolts loose. I opted to just take it apart and catch any of the highly corrosive brake fluid that flows out.
Undo the hose leading to the caliper:
Remove the caliper:
Now is an easy time to further drain the system and get the master cylinder empty, which means less brake fluid leaking out onto the swing arm/exhaust.
First remove the reservoir cap to allow the system to breath freely:
Make sure to remove the rubber expansion seal:
Store the cap, plastic pressure washer and rubber expansion seal together so nothing gets lost or hurt:
Now drain the system by pumping the rear brake until no more fluid comes out:
Then remove the brake line from the master cylinder by removing the banjo bolt, as you did with the caliper.
It might be a good idea to wrap a rag around the area to catch any fluid that WILL leak out.
I then moved onto removing the front caliper, being that I wanted to paint both of them at the same time. Before removing the caliper, brake the pad retention pins loose. These suckers get tight, and it's easier to do on the bike. For the rear caliper I'll have to clamp it in a vice to get them loose cause they're a PITA to get to while the rear caliper is on the bike.
Dirty dirty dirty calipers! ;D
2 brake pad retention bolts removed, 2 brake pads removed, 2 caliper bracket (attachment to forks) loosened, soon to be removed, and 1 hose guide bent open to remove line. You could also remove the line from caliper and feed it through, but that's messier than I'd liked... There is also a reason I'm doing this, bare with me. At this point, the front brake system is removed from the bike as a solid unit.
Next it's time to brake loose the front brake reservoir/master cylinder unit screws to get to the fluid inside. If they don't come loose easily, find a screw driver that fits them nicely and hit it with a hammer. Don't be shy, HIT IT! They will loosen up considerably.
If that doesn't work, clamp it in a vice, use the same proper fitting screw driver and a pair of vice grips to attain the required slow-steady force to remove these suckers. No matter how carefully I put them in, they always do this to me. It's always a struggle. Why? Because steel and aluminium fuze together in what's called a "cold weld", which microscopically the aluminium molds to the steel because it's softer. The heat/cold of the reservoir being in the sun, in addition to the heat generated by the system from regular use aids in this "welding". This means... MORE FORCE! ;D
I ended up damaging the screws a bit, but not enough to require replacements in my book:
mmmmmmm, delicious 2 year old, 40K mile abused brake fluid!