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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Coolant change on a Ninja 650...?
I haven't found a vid on TubeU yet...
The one i have found on Ninja 250 n 636 shows bottom bolt on either Waterpump or Thermostat (whatever it is) on left side sitting on the bike where the hose is connected is the drain. True or false..?
Do you run the bike n warm it to make it drain..?
I'll do a vid of doing it 4 TubeU. if i can find the correct info..
Thanks if anyone can let me know....

I did search the forums........:dance:








 

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To do a full coolant change yes do it at the water pump. However, it is messy so make it over a large pan or somewhere where anti freeze will not be an issue. It is very slippery on concrete and stays on concrete for a while so I don't recommend doing it on concrete without a large catch pan

twisted throttles brings me smiles
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got me a big ol drainPan......
Just wasn't sure if the bottom bolt on that 90 Degree thingie with the hose on it...on shiftaaa side....that i had that leak this spring i doctored up wazzzzz the place to do it 4 sure.....????
I wanna just drain it, ( azzz much as possible ) so i can refill threw the radiator with new stuff...( 4 aluminum radiators )...Nnnnn be good another year or so.....
:whistling:
:whistling:
:whistling:
:whistling:








 

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I thought you had a manual? It explains everything step by step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mine just says to refer to Coolant Change in the Periodic Maintenance
chapter. Then u go there n it never really tells u how.....
I have two manuals n both say that...








 

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I got me a big ol drainPan...... Just wasn't sure if the bottom bolt on that 90 Degree thingie with the hose on it...on shiftaaa side....that i had that leak this spring i doctored up wazzzzz the place to do it 4 sure.....???? I wanna just drain it, ( azzz much as possible ) so i can refill threw the radiator with new stuff...( 4 aluminum radiators )...Nnnnn be good another year or so..... :whistling: :whistling: :whistling: :whistling:
You can pull the hose off the water pump and it will clean everything in the radiator and then but not the engine. That why pulling the cover at the water pump will clean more but be careful no to mess up the seals

twisted throttles brings me smiles
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
suction out the overflow.....:facepalm:

I'll have a chic friend of mine take care of that......:whistling:

I guess i can take that hose i had trouble with off again.....:facepalm:

NNNnn just add a bitta stopleak in the new green shit when i fill it......like i did last spring.....:rolleyes:











 

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suction out the overflow.....:facepalm: I'll have a chic friend of mine take care of that......:whistling: I guess i can take that hose i had trouble with off again.....:facepalm: NNNnn just add a bitta stopleak in the new green shit when i fill it......like i did last spring.....:rolleyes:
Don't use stop leak Use a little steel wool and clean the pump housing where the hose slip over then the inside of the tube. Use a new clamp make sure the hose is fully seated. And don't put the hose too close to the "hump" of the pump housing Or that can also cause a leak. If you absolutely have to use stop leak do it a below the "hump" on the housing and try not to get it in the pump opening That stuff is a gritty substance made to put in when its hot as that heat activates the sticky quality allowing it to stick to itself which is how it plugs holes. You don't need grit in your water pump.

twisted throttles brings me smiles
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Don't use stop leak Use a little steel wool and clean the pump housing where the hose slip over then the inside of the tube. Use a new clamp make sure the hose is fully seated. And don't put the hose too close to the "hump" of the pump housing Or that can also cause a leak. If you absolutely have to use stop leak do it a below the "hump" on the housing and try not to get it in the pump opening That stuff is a gritty substance made to put in when its hot as that heat activates the sticky quality allowing it to stick to itself which is how it plugs holes. You don't need grit in your water pump.

twisted throttles brings me smiles
Cleaned it well last time it seeped. n it still seeped....
Added maybe a tablespoon of stop leak into the system n it stopped n never leaked again....:thumb:

I use:

Liquid Copper™ Block Seal Intake & Radiator Stop Leak (p/n 1109) | Frequently Asked Questions | Bar's Leaks & Rislone - Premium Automotive Chemicals








 

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Cleaned it well last time it seeped. n it still seeped.... Added maybe a tablespoon of stop leak into the system n it stopped n never leaked again....:thumb: I use: Liquid Copper™ Block Seal Intake & Radiator Stop Leak (p/n 1109) | Frequently Asked Questions | Bar's Leaks & Rislone - Premium Automotive Chemicals
yeah well I understand that bud but read the link you posted its made of fibers which is the grit I mentioned bud. I don't want that anywhere around my water pump bud. More than likely you got a crappy hose clamp. But you can try putting it on the hump itself.

twisted throttles brings me smiles
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yeah well I understand that bud but read the link you posted its made of fibers which is the grit I mentioned bud. I don't want that anywhere around my water pump bud. More than likely you got a crappy hose clamp. But you can try putting it on the hump itself.

twisted throttles brings me smiles
Im thinking on new hose n clamps...i't not a lotta $$$$








 
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