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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have just recently changed my oil and had it up right and the oil doesnt show up in the site glass....im guess i put about 1 1/2 quarts in the crankcase what can cuase this to happen ??? ??? ??? ???
 

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Is the engine running while you checked it? Shut it off if it is. You're supposed to check it at engine temp, after it's been running for a minute and then shut off for another minute to let the oil fall back down a bit, then stand it up and check it.

Just sounds like you're low dude, just add a small bit of oil (like a 1/4 cup at a time) until it levels out in the window.
 

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To add to Travisty's response... All good stuff!

Did you change the oil filter when you did the oil change? In that case, the filter itself will hold about a pint of oil. So when you put the new oil in, and it was nice and in the middle of the window, it will now be below the window. Add some more, and it should be in the middle of the window every time...

:p
 

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yup, when I change the oil and the filter, I end up putting about 2.15 quarts in total.... I go off the glass, and don't just stick with the what the manual says to measure...
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
sweet thanks guys......like i said new to the whole street bike stuff so would be lost if it wasnt for you guys
 

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D, it's the difference between a dry and a wet fill... Technically, the Little ninja doesn't have an oil tank. All the oil is housed in the crank case. For a wet fill, as in, no oil filter removal, and therefor not all the oil drained out, it's 1.9. But I think in the manual it says for a dry fill it's 2.1 or 2.3q of oil... Which is why I go by the window, because unless you take the whole engine apart, and squeegy every last molecule of oil off/out, measuring the oil and pouring it in is just not accurate enough. But putting in oil, running the bike for a while (to let the oil filter get soaked), and then adding oil as needed is "most best" IMO, cause you can get it to the exact same level every time!
 

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spooph said:
D, it's the difference between a dry and a wet fill... Technically, the Little ninja doesn't have an oil tank. All the oil is housed in the crank case. For a wet fill, as in, no oil filter removal, and therefor not all the oil drained out, it's 1.9. But I think in the manual it says for a dry fill it's 2.1 or 2.3q of oil... Which is why I go by the window, because unless you take the whole engine apart, and squeegy every last molecule of oil off/out, measuring the oil and pouring it in is just not accurate enough. But putting in oil, running the bike for a while (to let the oil filter get soaked), and then adding oil as needed is "most best" IMO, cause you can get it to the exact same level every time!
Ok that makes sense!
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
alright filled the crank case with more oil.....now how high should the rpms get when i put the choke on....and when i put the choke on it tends to bog down and struggles and dies
 

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How so Draco?

"Choke" - sounds like you don't need to use all of the choke, maybe only half. Why are you using it in the first place? It doesn't start in the early mornings? Or never starts without the choke? How high are you're RPM's? If the bike is jetted properly, you shouldn't need the choke F40+. Yours sounds to be close, maybe go up just a smidge richer (maybe one more shim) - can't remember if you've shimmed it or not yet...

So let me explain: The "choke" is actually a throttle enriching circuit - it opens another set of jets that are molded into the carbs, as in, you can't change them, and dumps more fuel into the air stream for cold starting. That's all it's designed to do... Thus, if you change out the idle jet for a bigger one (only go up one step), or you raise the needle with a shim (same thing, basically), you're idle jetting will be "big" enough not to need the enriching circuit. make a sense?

I'm hoping to eventually get to my little ninja and do this. I want to completely remove the choke and stopper up the extra cavities in the carb... There are few things as enjoyable as taking of extra parts from the moto, for good... :)

Oh, and by the way, I don't know these things because of me... Really. If it wasn't for all the other people here, including but not limited to Red, X, Eric, Joe, Brad, Travisty, Crushed, etc, etc, etc, I wouldn't be able to make heads or tails out of any of this. When I came to this site, I was a novice at this whole thing, and the stuff I've learned here will never be forgotten! I am now less of a novice... :) I thank the heavens for this place! Which is why I'm such a pain (asshole), sometimes.. :p
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok i just used the choke to warm up the bike..... so just use it half way.....no needles shimmed.....hopefully i can do the same spooph but ur the one who has been basically answering all the question i have been asking so you are a beast or you just been beating them to asnwer lol....i think i might have adjusted everything to where the bike runs good....but have that said the enigne doesnt sound as rough has more of a quiet whine kind of it that normal???
 

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um, quiet whine? um um, I think we need more description... Or a recording, or video...

And everybody else should feel free to jump in, disagree, agree or affirm.... :p

And thank you very much Draco! I really appreciate it! And yes, I'm a bit of Newninja whore... I really love this place!
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i shall try to get u a good sound clip or video on how it sounds...... the reason why i say quiet whine is that it not a loud nor not whinning hince a quiet whine just sound like that when im riding at a stop i can hear the babbling of the engine when the throttle is going it like a whining sound. i geeting attached i get one here a lot just to just to see what pep are blogging about and stuff like that
 

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I told you Spooph was the local know it all!!!!

I don't answer questions like this, cause my descriptions of things is a little sketchy!!!(do-hicky into the thingamabob, while going around the wig wam!!!)
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yet another question....the clutch lever has play in it and i tried to tighten up the slack but when i did the threads were almost out the lever..... should i replace the cable?????
 

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You could, put you also have a second set of adjustments on the bottom of the cable, where the clutch cable connects to the clutch actuator arm on the ride side of the crank case (obviously the right of the bike as well)... It's cable/lever combo that's right close to your oil filler cap. You can back off the bottom nut all the way, and then tighten it up again with the top nut to push the cable sheathing up as far as it'll go...

When you do this, make sure to back the clutch adjustment at the lever all the way out, because you'll tighten it up significantly, and you might damage it when you start cranking on the bottom (top), nut...

Hope this helps.
 
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