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Air Filters for the 2008-2011 Kawasaki Ninja 250R
This is a list of available air filters for the Ninja 250R. This may not be an exhaustive list. Feel free to post others that you may know of or use.

Drop-in Type

OEM Kawasaki Air Filter- Kawasaki P/N: 11013-0020

K&N Air Filter- P/N: KA-2508
K&N Stock Replacement Air Filters allow engines to breath more efficiently, and are the first step to getting more horsepower from your bike. These filters use pleated, multi-layer surgical cotton mesh to deliver the best air cleaning qualities and the highest air flow rate. No rejetting is required with a stock muffler

BMC Air Filter - P/N: BMC-FM551-04
BMC air filters are designed and produced to ensure a higher air flow than original paper filters. BMC air filters, made in cotton, minimize the loss of air flow pressure passing through the air filter; this way ensures the best conditions for full exploitation of maximum power. Therefore, the benefits of replacing the original paper filter with a BMC cotton air filter in your motorcycles are evident.

JFC Performance Filter
Sportisi Motorsport is the EXCLUSIVE sole distributor for JFC Drop in air filter for the NINJA 250R. This product is an instant PERFORMANCE INCREASE without any jetting changes required on a standard bike.

UNI Air Filter- P/N: NU-2303
•Higher airflow for higher performance •Fits in stock airbox exactly like OEM filter •Longer service intervals •Cleans easily with grease-cutting dishwashing detergent; just clean, re-oil and reuse indefinitely •Foam filter stops more dirt than paper filters

DNA Air Filter- P/N: P-K6S07-0R
This new DNA filter is designed to replace the stock foam filter without any modifications. This DNA filter features a very large filtering area, combined with 4 layers of High quality DNA Surgical nafta cotton, impregnated in DNA Special air filter oil.

Pipercross Performance Air Filter- P/N: MXP166
Pipercross foam is the secret to a lightweight, long life performance air filter. Pipercross air filters consistently outperform paper and cotton-gauze rivals to supply air to the engine - even when dirty. This is thanks to the multi-laminate construction used in every Pipercross performance air filter. Layers of varying porosity foam all work together to trap different sized particles. Pipercross have developed the perfect combination of filter density and thickness of each layer. Where Pipercross filters are impregnated with the dirt retention additive, the filtration performance is greater enhanced - the additive helps the foam to swell, opening pores whilst providing a "sticky" layer to hold more dirt.

FCL/Pipercross WIX- P/N: 49721

Note: Most filters will flow air better than the stock OEM Filter. These filters are ideal for shimming, re-jetting and exhaust modifications and may offer small performance gains.



Pod Type

K&N- P/N: R-0990
Dual Flange Oval, Universal Cotton Gauze Air Filter

K&N- P/N: RU-1822
Rubber Finish, Oval Tapered, Universal Cotton Gauze Air Filter

K&N- P/N: RC-1822
Chrome Finish, Oval Tapered Universal Cotton Gauze Air Filter

UNI- P/N: UP4200, UP5200, UP6200
• Completely washable foam• Durable urethane mounting flange • A durable vinyl mounting base for a longer lasting filter • The opening will reduce down to sizes 1/4” smaller than the list size

UNI- P/N: UP4200ST or UP6200ST
2 Stage foam filters • Completely washable • Durable urethane mounting flange • A durable vinyl mounting base for a longer lasting filter • The opening will reduce down to sizes 1/4” smaller than the list size

Note: The installation of some pod type filters may require minor alteration/modifications to the pod itself and removal of the stock airbox.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I know this is probably covered, but what modifications need to be made to make a pod fit? I was thinking of going with the dual flange oval k&n and getting rid of my intake box.
Removal of the airbox is the main PITA. Rejetting of the carbs is also necessary. Most who have done this mod have put on full exhaust as well. You will also need to fabricate a way to secure the Pod Filter.
What are your performance goals for the bike?
 

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ummm not really sure on the goals. Faster all around, but mostly more on the low end. Gotta love that torque.

I should be getting a full exhaust and het kit soon.

going with the Tyga header and the danmoto muffler. Cheaper and better sounding than anyone who makes a full kit.

Hmm...I thought the filter would just clamp onto the carbs...guess not. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ummm not really sure on the goals. Faster all around, but mostly more on the low end. Gotta love that torque.

I should be getting a full exhaust and het kit soon.

going with the Tyga header and the danmoto muffler. Cheaper and better sounding than anyone who makes a full kit.

Hmm...I thought the filter would just clamp onto the carbs...guess not. Any suggestions?
A lot of low end torque is not something the Ninja possess. (if your are trying to get the front end up) If you want 1st gear to be a bit more useful, a 15th front sprocket will help.

The airbox holds up the carbs, once you remove it there is really no support. Others have supported the carbs with something as simple as zip ties.

Once you get your jet kit and exhaust you will have to play around with settings to get the right one. Being you are 10ft above below sea level you will have a lot of humidity all the time.
 

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lol Not interested in "getting the front end up". Just want more low end power than it has now.

Hmmm...I'm not a big fan of zip ties especially on something like carbs. I had it in my mind that it was more the filter that needed to be secured/supported rather than the carbs.

Yeah I figured I'd have to play with the jet kit a good bit. I'm not looking forward to taking this bike to northern AZ. lol Guess I'll just get my 600 then. lol Thanks for the help and sorry for all the newb questions.
 

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Navy Ninja,

Removing the airbox might be counter productive to what you want to do. Torque has a lot to do with back pressure and air velocity, and when dealing with the lower part of the tach, generally, as much pressure as is possible is a good thing - meaning, keep the airbox. You could however put a drop-in filter in place of the foam filter in an attempt to decrease air resistance.

I have also heard lots of things about the airbox quieting the air and keeping the ariflow very unifrom and free-flowing as opposed to pod filter sucking air out of a very turbulent area in the void of the fairings and such.... I'm not saying you shouldn't do it, just make sure you understand as much about it as possible. More air does mean more power though.

Check this out and see what you think, minus the intake boot cuts, of course - those have been returned to stock now:
http://www.newninja.com/forums/f98/i-just-cant-keep-my-grubby-little-hands-off-of-it-4190.html

The best way to get torque is to go to a single-cylinder like the Honda250. Again, I'm not trying to tell you NOT to do this, by all means, go for it, I just want you to know what you're getting yourself into....
 

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hmm, maybe I'll just stick with the drop in filter. I don't know. seeing that you took pretty much everything off the bike to get to the air box kind of intimidates me. lol

I've worked on cars pretty much since I can remember, but never on a bike...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
...hmm, maybe I'll just stick with the drop in filter. I don't know. seeing that you took pretty much everything off the bike to get to the air box kind of intimidates me. lol
It's not so big a secret, but 30+ HP can be had on the Ninja (race bike set up) with a full exhaust, main jet decrease (on some bikes), timing change, stock airbox w/ stock filter and some small other changes. (all dyno proven) Which seems to be the opposite of what the everyday street rider attempts to achieve.

If you read around you'll see. http://www.newninja.com/forums/f98/new-pipercross-performance-air-filter-5556.html#post145491
 

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Yeah, I'll be looking into that filter once I find out I'm going to be paid this next pay cycle.(no pun intended lol) Along with exhaust and a few other goodies.

I should have almost 600 to spend on the bike. Should get me just about all the basic mods for now.
 
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