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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought the bike yesterday from the original owner with 680 miles on it. He said he rode it last year for about 100 miles and it ran fine. Then he stored it in his garage for the winter like he's done every year. After sitting for 4 or 5 months it won't idle. It will however, fire right up and stay one for a few minutes with the choke. During this time the rpm jumps a lot, sometimes from 2000-6000. He said he changed the gasoline thinking that the gas went stale and that didn't work.

When the bike is running on the choke and you try to give it throttle it will stall
and the rpm revs a lot

I'm charging the battery from messing with it today. If I have time I'll post a vid
 

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Hmmm...thats strange. I don't think I'll be of much help here...

Maybe you need to clean the carbs? They've got chemicals you can put in the gas tank and into the air filter but nothing really compares to taking them apart and cleaning them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The owner gave me "seafoam" which is a fuel additive and "gumout carb and choke cleaner" which is in spray form.

If I were to remove the carbs for a total cleaning, should i use the gumout or compressed air?
 

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I had the same problem with my dirtbike and my old three wheeler, and if you do take the carbs apart, i would suggest the gumout and a full cleaning of the moving parts and then run the fuel additive on idle, revving it a bit for at least ten minutes until you know it has ran through.

My .02 cents.
 

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not a carb mechanic. sorry... compressed air might be a bit harsh. Any experts out there???

Before you start tearing anything apart maybe adjust fuel mixture or idle screw. I would suggest to invest in a manual for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
~Aeros~ said:
i would suggest the gumout and a full cleaning of the moving parts and then run the fuel additive on idle, revving it a bit for at least ten minutes until you know it has ran through.
i cant rev it. if i give it a little throttle while the choke is on the engine stalls

and because it won't rev when i throttle, i dont think its the screw

thanks for the ideas, keep em coming please
 

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Get spooph or darkhorse to help you out with that.

Its most likely stale gas, I'd drain the tank and put some new gas in there, change the oil, filters, everything! Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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All these suggestions are great. You people are experts or something :D

Oaklandish: If you want this sucker to run right, right off the bat, my advice is a good thorough carb cleaning. Get yourself a manual if you want to do it right.

1.) Take the carbs out
2.) Take the carbs apart, making SPECIAL note how many turns the air/fuel mixture screw is turned in. The way I do it, is mark with a screw driver on the outside of where the air/fuel mixture screw lines up, then count in 1/2 turns as you turn it all the way to the bottom. It should be right around 2.5, but I might be off. Be as exact as you can. See if both carbs mach
3.) Take everything else apart.
4.) Use some nasty carb cleaner on all the metal parts and scrub 'em clean. If it's metal, blast it clean with compressed air. If it's plastic, or the thin rubber on your slides, be very careful, and use a less harsh chemical cleaner... You can also get away with cleaning everything with gas.

WARNING: This isn't for the hasty, or the brutish. Use a light, careful touch, take your time, have a beer, and make sure you DO NOT mess up your slides, needle or jets...

5.) Put everything back together once the ether has evaporated off, and you're sure it's not going to eat your rubber seals. Make sure your air/fuel screws are set at the same point as when you took them out.
6.) Clean all the lines with not-so-harsh chemicals. Gas and compressed air should work fine for this. Keep in mind, you don't need to worry about vacuum lines, they don't carry gas and gunk...
7.) Take off the petcock from your gas tank, clean it with not-so-nasty chemicals, submerge it in gas, and don't use 80psi or more to blow it out.
8.) Rinse your gas tank with gas for like 30 minutes to make sure you get all the bad gas out...
9.) Put everything back on the bike as you took it off, fill 'er with gas, turn the petcock to PRI, and fire her up... It will work like a charm.

The reason your bike almost dies with throttle, and the idle is sporadic is because you're running rich, very. Thus, if fuel is flowing, and you take the idle off, she'll be able to purr like the wonderful beast she is.

While you're at it, give the bike a good look see for these things:

Oil - could probably use a change, due to being old, unused.
Airfilter- clean and oiled?
Chain - rusty, well lubed?

That should get you on the road. Post with more problems.

You could also go the lazy route, throw A LOT of seafoam in your tank, and just let it idle through a tank of gas or something. I know of people who've done that, but I'm too much of a control freak to do so myself. I want to my reflection in my carb bodies, and know, when I twist that throttle, it will be a beautiful sound, and not some frustration BS...

Let your story be a warning for all those who think it isn't necessary to "winterize" a bike - I just ride her year round :p

good luck, and let us know what's up. Welcome to the board by the way!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thank you,

I've been looking on ebay for a manual and don't find anything buy these manuals on cd-rom. here's one i found on amazon http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-454LTD-LTD450-Vulcan-Automotive/dp/1563926679/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1240316882&sr=1-1. i have a haynes manual for my cadillac and am very pleased. is there one that you guys generally refer to?

also while searching the internet i found a pdf service manual that looks like it comes from kawasaki. i will post it up if anyone wants
 

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thanks guys, you make my "feel goods" feel good!

Oaklandish, I don't like the clymer manuals because there are too many words in them. They describe how to do many things in detail. I don't need or want those in-depth descriptions. I just want a diagram, illustrative drawings, and the specs for each part. I always go with the factory manual. Cost me $70 from Kawi, and I can't tell you how many times it's saved my rear...

But if you want to go with something else, buy it, use it, if you don't like it, throw it back on ebay until you find something that works for you, you know?
 

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I don't have experience with seafoam in that application, all I would do is take out everything with rubber on it (slides, air/fuel mixture screw, etc), and let the metal sit and soak, just to be safe, you know?
 

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I'm guessing he spooph mean soak in the seafoam, but seafoam is not really meant for that application... Seafoam is meant to be run through, it does basically what it's name says, it foams a bit and when the vaccuum/pressure hits, it pulls/pushes the debris out... Also it has an aerating agent which sorta renews the life of the gasoline... In short terms, it is used to bring back the life of the gasoline, which is not as a liquid burned, rather the fumes from the gasoline are what burn, and if left sitting long enough gasoline will actually go flat (sorta like an opened coca-cola). The seafoam really won't do much for you if you are using it to clean. It you were to soak any parts in anything, it would be gasoline or alchohol, MAYBE ether (not necessary to use ether), but what you havta remember is that if you use either alchohol or gasoline to clean any parts, you should remember to clean them off with a dry rag after to remove any of the gunk from the soaking process.

Dang sorry bout the loooong post... Any other questions post em up we'll help ya.
 
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